Just how good should the brakes on my Ruby be?

[Denis Sweeney]

An update on an old thread ……... following on from all the previous comments on this thread I thought some may be interested in the following:


I had stripped and re-adjusted the brake system on Ruby numerous times and always finished up with basically the same set up as I had when I first had her running but was still not happy with the braking performance I was able to achieve.


What I did know was that with all four wheels off the ground and the handbrake fully on, the brakes locked all four wheels, but when on the road, I could simply not not apply the same force on the pedal to lock the wheels.
So back up on axle stands, what became apparent was that when I applied the maximum pressure that I could apply with my right foot.... If I then applied the handbrake the full five notches, the brake pedal moved a lot further than I could actually depress it.
I then pulled the handbrake up to the same point as I could actually depress the brakes (not the full five notches) I found that none of the wheels locked and I could rotate each wheel, not easily but they were certainly not locking. 
Daft as this may sound, I then tried wearing a much heavier pair of shoes, not the normal soft soled shoes of today and was amazed at how much more pressure I could actually apply on the brakes.
A couple of earlier posts had mentioned the amount of effort needed on the brake pedal but I had simply not realised how much difference a solid pair of shoes would make.
I recently added a free "g force" app to my phone and admittedly I do not know how accurate this app is, but it tells me I achieve between 0.35 and 0.4g when braking from 30 mph, checking through previous comments "Chris KC" noted a figure of around 0.38g was a realistic figure.
Whether or not this is a true figure, what I do know is that I certainly feel much happier and much more comfortable driving Ruby.  I have also noted the comments on driving style and my wife confessed to have actually enjoyed our drive out today, result!! 
Thanks for all the comments and advice.
Denis S

[Pearls not a Singer]

I've just caught up with this thread.

Again I may be stating the obvious  but its not mentioned anywhere previous; to simulate the situation when the car is on the road to check if all 4 wheels are free with the brakes off and if they all come on the right amount (balanced and locked) its necessary to have the axles resting on axle stands with the wheels at their normal loaded height.

NEVER get under the car to adjust the cables if you only have jacks supporting it!

[John Mason]

Pearl not a Singer, I agree never get under a car (or anything) just relying on a jack. Use axle stands and then shake the car to make shore it is solidly held and will not fall off the stands before you get under. Sorry if I sound like a health and safety inspector but it is far better to be safe and sorry.

John Mason.

[bob46320]

If the wheel(s) are off, slide them under the chassis. Agreed A7 wheels are a bit slim, but for moderns, may give you a second chance !

[Robert Leigh]

For the record, the last time our Chummy was tested it showed 80% on the Tapley meter. The car is updated with 1.25" shoes and drums, coupled system with later cross-shaft, but still has standard open cables. Obviously I had adjusted things to their optimum before the test. The tester said it was the best he had seen on an Austin Seven. I have also been told by the same garage testing our Ulsteroid (he took it for a drive on his own because he likes driving it!) that 'the brakes are fine'. With care adequate results can be achieved.
Robert Leigh

[Chris KC]

That's impressive Robert!

[Bob Culver]

Robert's brake figure is impressive and typical of the best for many cars of the 1940s and later. But applied to a heavy Ruby for the exact same brakes deceleration will reduce more or less in proportion to the weight increase.

[Peter Sweeney]

Don't know if the attachments will be there but I have sent 2 photos of the brake cross shaft where it meets the front cable. I have full Girling brakes on both my Big 7 and Ruby special I recently bought a new yoke etc illustrated with the spare cross shaft (Ruby). My Query is when did the threaded screw in pin come into use. Was it only on the full Girling cars as it is on both of my cars and this spare shaft. None of them are threaded for the yoke to be screwed through. This makes it easier to set the tension on the front cable. As you push the threaded part of the yoke through the pin tighten it with the nut and lock it with a lock nut. Any thoughts

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[attachment=6220][attachment=6220]    

[Ian Williams]

Only one picture is there Peter, you are showing the threaded pin at the brake rod end of a full grilling cross shaft and reproduction pin and yoke that is fitted to the drop arm at the opposite end of your shaft. On grilling cars the brake rod pin is threaded on one end but has a plain bore clearly shown in your picture the drop arm end the pin is plain with a threaded bore as per your reproduction also pictured. I am unclear what you are asking unless you are confusing the two?

[Peter Sweeney]

         

You are right I have confused myself with the spare on the bench. This is the one fitted on the Big 7

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As you can see the screwed pin is on the right  Confused my self