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All Alloy Cup progress
Id be very interested in your subtle changes R. When I sit in mine with no cushions. My feet go a good 12 inches beyond the pedals. Im 3 inches shorter than you.
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Let’s see if they work first Hedd!
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Hi Ruairidh,

6 ft 3”. Your passengers may have to be children?
Hope you are steaming ahead with the Red and Alloy Cup!

I was also worried about my head height and eye-line
too , but the eye-line is OK as I recently made the windscreen rake
slightly more vertical, partly to make the screen further away from
the steering wheel. This may have upset the fit of the hoodframe,
But that’s easily modified.

My TR3A, with its hardtop fitted is tricky to get into as well and
one of my tall neighbours just could not manage it! He’ll need
to wait till the winter hardtop comes off.

There’s no way he will ever get in the Cup, but his petite wife will!

Investigating fabrics for making a tonneau and a hood, wish I hadn’t
sold my industrial sewing machine.

Regards

Bill G
Aka AllAlloyCup
Based near the Scottish Border,
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I am 6’ 3” tall, not wide Bill!

My seat base is angled down at the back and the Body is slightly further back than it should be on the chassis, this has helped with leg room on previous projects...

I am pretty much level with the windscreen top rail on all my Sevens, including the Saloon, and have learnt to live with it. I have a hunch to prove it!

I use Leathercloth from Woolies for hoods and tonneaus, it has a little bit of stretch that can be usefully forgiving of fit, if required.
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My body is as far back as it will go without a notch in the dashboard for the steering column. If it goes back much further the axle banjo and the curved bit of vertical ply in the tail will become aquainted.
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If that part of the body is getting closer to the back axle you are moving it the wrong way!
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Hi Hedd

Just to say I had to put a small notch in my dashboard to accommodate
the steering column, without a dished steering wheel I was struggling to
get enough clearance between the steering wheel and the cockpit capping.
That’s with the later flatter steering wheel, now changed.

The lesson being don’t finalise the body position unless you have the column
and the steering wheel fitted on the chassis. Luckily
i was able to resolve all the conflicts without too much trouble.

Some further progress on the Cup this afternoon, fitted  a few instruments and figured 
Out how to mount the silencer and tail pipe, so can now
refit the alloy under sills. Leaving off fitting the wings/doors till the engine is in and working!

Regards

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
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I have the opposite problem in my special. Being rather short I found with the seat far enough forward to fully depress the pedals it was too hard to get in under the steering wheel. No doors on mine so you have to jump over the side then slide down the seat. I moved the seat back (the seat is a narrowed Ruby one - I narrowed the sliding base too) and just made new clutch and brake pedals with longer stalks so my short legs can reach!

Simon
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Put in a few more instruments , a 12v voltmeter and a Bullnose Morris
Oil Gauge and fitted a bracket to hold the silencer and a clamp for the tail pipe.

Fitted the Austin motif in the centre of the radiator core  in GE Cup fashion.

The undersills can now go back on but are easily removed for getting at the brake cables.

Working from the back so soon will fit the screen glass and connect up
The Lucas control panel, indicator and dip switch.

But first the clutch release bearing assembly to do this afternoon.

Regards

Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
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Is there any danger of fumes coming back into the cockpit with the exhaust exiting in front of the rear wheel on a cup? I have a slight issue on my special of where to take the exhaust as going over the rear guard will put it right where any passengers arm will go. I could drop if down and out in front of the rear wheel but then I worry about gassing them with fumes! Oh well, it's not really designed to take passengers anyway.

Simon
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