Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,394 Threads: 106
Reputation:
28
Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
01-04-2019, 08:01 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-04-2019, 08:03 PM by Chris KC.)
I think rather than trying to re-make the old splines I would consider cutting and shutting it - i.e. use the existing splined end but cut back to base of the 'original' splines and re-weld with an inch or two removed. I would want to know it had been very soundly welded though.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 313 Threads: 9
Reputation:
6
Location: TINOPAI NZ
HI RPM,
Personally I would remove the whole steering column and machine off the weld making sure Not to damage the Splines,
Then with the extension removed you will know if the thread has been damaged and carefully cleanup the spline .
If that approach not successful the next option Cut off damaged section and Use the Extension Piece to replace damagedĀ shaft back to the length required
Colin
NZ
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,394 Threads: 106
Reputation:
28
Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Maybe I'm mis-reading the pictures but it looks to me like the 'old' spline has been cut off rather than sleeved over?
Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 1,507 Threads: 54
Reputation:
8
Personally with such a safety critical item I'd phone Tony Betts for a replacement steering column.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,534 Threads: 60
Reputation:
20
That is horrible.
I extended a steering column to ensure that a Bluemels wheel fitted without breaking my knuckles. I added a couple of inches to both the outer (with a sleeve for strength) and the inner ( using a "tongue and fork" type of joint) before welding. Yes, I sacrificed another column in pursuit of my goal so purists may despise me, but it's a better way.
Charles
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
Reputation:
16
Car type:
what wheel is that anyway, Rob? It looks like an earlier 65 wheel, but that would be flat rather than dished. Wouldn't yours have multi wires for the sections of the wheel?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 739 Threads: 13
Reputation:
5
Hi Rob,
You should have about 6 1/2" ( on a Type 65 ) between the column clamp and the back of the wheel.
The steering wheel is not from a Type 65, most likely from an MG.
It looks like a box saloon column extended for the Nippy.
If you want to shorted the column the wheel will sit lower down closer to your knees though.
I understand that later Nippy had a shorter column probably to go with the Frank Ashby wheel.
It could be one of these that has been extended or the more common Box Saloon version.
The section of lower inner column with the weld is not recoverable, you would have to use the section with the full splines and thread cut off and re-welded or preferably brazed with a spigot to support and strengthen.
Or Just drive and enjoy the car as it is.
Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 255 Threads: 67
Reputation:
1
Appreciated all the comments, suggestions and measurements. I'm very new to the A7, I can confirm that the steering box is an E9 type and the wheel fitted is a flat 17"Bluemels ?. At some stage, I will purchase a Frank Ashby 16"to keep with original spec, JonE noted. Mine is Nippy 36. Perhaps the spline was added to accept the wheel fitted now. Also, how do I know if a new Ashby wheel will fit spline showing? or will the spline be the same as bluemels. Not thought of any of this until you guy's commented.
Think I should wait until I can afford the Ashby Wheel then offer it up to correct position and proceed from there with one of the suggestions given in this thread.
ps Any preference to where I should buy the Ashby wheel, also need a stone guard.
Lighter nights are here...Yea!!.
Thanks All
Rob RPM.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,534 Threads: 60
Reputation:
20
Austin 7 Bluemels wheels have the same splines as standard ones. The lack of dishing in a Bluemels wheel compared to Ashby or a standard wheel means that the longer colum is needed.
If it was my car I'd put a standard column on the 9E box and either fit a standard wheel or Ashby one. Selling the Bluemels wheel would raise a Bob or two.
Charles