engine gearbox split

[Martin Nash]

Can any one give me some tips on how to rematch the  engine (removed for rear core plug replacement) on my 1932 box saloon with the gearbox. I am wondering how to realign the three clutch levers and keep them in place whilst matching the engine to gearbox

[Robert Leigh]

Can any one give me some tips on how to rematch the  engine (removed for rear core plug replacement) on my 1932 box saloon with the gearbox. I am wondering how to realign the three clutch levers and keep them in place whilst matching the engine to gearbox

Before engine and gearbox get too close turn the engine slowly on the handle, and so long as one lever drops into its slot the others should follow as you turn the engine. I have found it far easier to replace the core plug by carefully cleaning out the register with a right angle screwdriver while the engine is in place. You can then introduce the new core plug with a suitable bit of sealant, holding it in place with a steel wedge between the centre of the core plug and the bulkhead (I have used a hammer head). Then bash the centre of the bulkhead in line with your wedge from the footwell side, which will flatten the core plug into its final resting place: job done! But you might have preferred to know about this technique before you removed the engine!
Robert Leigh

[Martin Nash]

Robert many thanks. I will try as you suggest although like your other solution too.

MN

[Derek Sheldon]

Many people have problems with aligning the side spline with the gearbox. I personally bring the spline on the clutch to tdc, I then do the same with the gearbox in first gear, I then mark the output flange so that I can directly if it has moved. I can usually line it all up  in a couple of minutes. Good luck

[Martin Prior]

Many people have problems with aligning the side spline with the gearbox. I personally bring the spline on the clutch to tdc, I then do the same with the gearbox in first gear, I then mark the output flange so that I can directly if it has moved. I can usually line it all up  in a couple of minutes. Good luck

I use the same method as Derek and it works very well.  The horrors of lining up the blind spline are really a bit of a myth.  The critical trick is to have a gear engaged.  I fitted, removed and re-fitted a 'box three times in quick succession at the weekend - it slid straight on every time.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

Martin,

The very best tip I have for holding the the three toggles in place was from Malcolm Parker - he suggested wedging them into the cover plate slots with thin cardboard.

You place a small strip over the slot and then push the lever down into it. The card jams into the gaps and holds the toggle in place for fitting.

Once in use it soon dissapears without damaging anything.

[Martin Nash]

Many thanks. In the end we took the gearbox out and married it to engine on the bench. Even that was difficult enough but all done.

MN

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Martin,

The very best tip I have for holding the the three toggles in place was from Malcolm Parker - he suggested wedging them into the cover plate slots with thin cardboard.

You place a small strip over the slot and then push the lever down into it.  The card jams into the gaps and holds the toggle in place for fitting.  

Once in use it soon dissapears without damaging anything.

That sounds like a great idea. In the end we tied them in their slots with a piece of string, almost married the gearbox and pull the string away at the last moment.

MN

[Parazine]

With three speed gearboxes, I usually put the release bearing onto the levers on the clutch before the engine goes in. If you're not to brutal, it will stay there as the engine is fitted as it's quite a tight fit. Just need to make sure that the operating levers (on the through rod) engage with the release bearing when all is installed.
There are some advantages to having an older car, blind splines were not fitted until 1928/29 (I think), so the whole process is much easier on early models.

[Robert Foreman]

Like Parazine I put the clutch release bearing on to hold the levers in place. 
   I then put two elastic bands stretched over the bell housing studs to hold it in place. You then put the engine in and once engaged in the gearbox and bellhousing studs so you can put one or two nuts on, you then snap the elastic bands and engage everything fully.

[BobH]

When replacing gearbox / Clutch I remove the top 2 engine Gearbox studs and replace them with 2 long studs (6") the gearbox is suspended on these studs and then you do not have to support the weight. A pair of wing nuts can be used to stop the gearbox from dropping off backwards. You then have 2 hands free to align the blind spline.