All Alloy Cup progress

[AllAlloyCup]

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Spent a couple of hours making a template
and then a steel split toeboard after adjusting the pedal fits to be free from obstructions and rubbing against stuff.
Used 3 captive caged nuts rivetted to the bottom half of the drivers toeboard. Makes taking out the floor a lot easier.

I should really fit the seat squabs to see if my feet can now manage to work the pedals....

Brake pedal travel , not finally adjusted, is limited to just 1” which is great and what I’d hoped for. Haven’t fitted the clutch spring yet.

So can now proceed to the handbrake set up and the fitting of the carburettor its connections to the throttle pedal and choke.
Also can  reset the steering column levers and linkages

Regards


Bill G

[AllAlloyCup]

I learned to limbo this afternoon while working on the 
Cup...

 To fix all the parts for the handbrake I had to take out all
the floors but leaning in or squatting inside the chassis
was a real stretch. So crawled in under the chassis rail
and sat up to bolt up the twin ratchet , before I fitted
The prop shaft.

Finally decided to scrap my old downpipe as the route
under the “hoop” is not viable, however the old pipe
will help define the shape 
of the new one. My pal Peter has a pipe bender so will 
shortly be paying him a visit!

Regards 

Bill G

[AllAlloyCup]

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Working today on a lot of fiddly jobs after the slog of getting all the pedals to work cleanly without fouling each other and bits of the floor.

Although the chassis of the car is 1925, the engine and axles probably are 1928, except the inlet/exhaust manifold which is from a 1934 Austin 7 Ruby model. The carburettor is from a 1934 Morris 8!

I linked up the accelerator pedal shaft to the SU carburettor air input butterfly valve, with a new adjustable link and also made up a choke wire linkage from a choke control knob, under the dash, to a pivot bracket that pulls down the SU jet.

Next job is to make the control rods activated from the levers at the base of the steering box.

Regards

Bill G

[AllAlloyCup]

    Decided to have a change from all things bulkhead and wiring related so
went back to metal panel finishing and lacquering.

So rubbed down some of the panel beating  and welding marks on
the front wings, both undersills and the drivers side flitch plate.

Then finished with two grades of Scotchbrite pads on my large angle grinder 
fitted with a Velcro rubber disc.

This leaves the metal surfaces covered in fine blackish dust so
headed for the family bathroom to wash the sills and flitch plate
Down with some Fairy liquid and loads of hot water. 

Throughly rinsed and then dried off with clean paper towels.
Then washed down with Meths and dried off again with clean paper towels.

Moved all the bits to the back porch( garage is too cold for spraying)
And sprayed on the Nyalic in about 2 minutes! Will give it a second coat 
Later tonight.

Finish is excellent. Hope it lasts!!

Regards

Bill G
Aka AllAlloyCup

[AllAlloyCup]

As it was quite warm and dry this afternoon, I took the 
opportunity to fit the anti chip butyl tiles to part of the under surfaces of the
Wings. I had weighed the four wings before I started
and they together did not weigh 1 kg!!

The 12 tiles I used were just under 1 kg !!
So total weight of 4 wings is just under 2kg.

Not sure what 4 steel wings would weigh?

To ensure maximum adhesion I used a hair dryer
to warm both the alloy wing and the sound deadening
Tiles. The tiles were easy to cut and fit and stuck down extremely
well.

Next stage with the wings is to do a final Scotchbriting session 
, wash down and then spray with Nyalic.

The wings have already been try fitted and once lacquered 
they will simply bolt on, with some wing piping on the rears.

Will need a warmer day to pull the car outside the garage
and do the final Scotchbriting and lacquering on the main bodywork
and the domed tail.

Still lots of other bits to do though.

Regards

Bill G
Aka AllAlloyCup



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[AllAlloyCup]

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The weather today was remarkably mild and warm
so managed to finalise the lacquering of the remaining 
wings, and other metal panels, except the body tub and boot lid.

So now all safely stored in my study till I get the engine, gearbox, clutch
fired up.

Hoping to get another warm spell to pull out the car from the garage
for the final Scotchbriting and Nyalic lacquering of the body tub and tail cover.

Looking forward to soon seeing an assembled all alloy car!

Regards

Bill G

[Erich]

Bill, you're making great progress on the car. I'm likely nearly as anxious as you to see it finished. I'm curious about how the run (and why the loop) on the fuel line. The reason I ask, is that on my Ulster Rep, my fuel line went down under my Solex 30MOV and then up to the float bowl at the forward end of the carb. I wondering if that could cause starvation, or is there enough gravity pressure from a scuttle mounted tank to avoid this?

Erich in Seattle

[Malcolm Parker]

My Brooklands has a Chummy fuel tank scuttle mounted.  The fuel pipe comes straight down to the Solex 30MOV carb with a petrol tap just under the tank outlet.  There is no problem with fuel supply to the carb as the float chamber is very low, being just above chassis level.   My only worry with the Solex set up is that the air inlet is vulnerable to sucking in grit and dirt.

[AllAlloyCup]

Hi Erich

That pipe was my first attempt I may have to remodel it.
Plus there seems to be some disquiet about gravity fed SU’s
on the Forum but I thought I’d try it anyway rather than
plumb in a 6v electric pump. I’ve bought a vintage hand air pump
Which I could use to pressurise the tank and might try that fitted
in the dash, which is what Ulster’s used?

See the Scarlett O’Hara thread on that topic.
Finding an old low pressure gauge seem to be the main problem
but repro ones are available for about £100.

Getting close to finishing all the bodywork which
will be a major milestone. Snagging Led wiring just now!
Hope your own projects are doing well.

Regards
Ps the loop was an “anti vibration” measure, see Ruairidh ‘s for
how I should have made it!
Bill G

[Erich]

Thank you Bill and Malcolm. When I bought my car, it had an electric pump and a semi down draught SU. I installed the Solex, but from the tap in the cockpit, the line went upwards to the front top NS corner of the fire wall. I've moved it to be at the front NS lower corner, so it is all down hill, except for the bit under the carb, which has it going up to the float bowl for several inches. I had considered a pump, but the originals had a bleed setting in them which eliminates a separate bleed valve which the report pumps require.

Erich in Seattle