BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL

[bob46320]

I replaced the rear wheel studs some years ago but found that the inside riveted flange fouled the brake shoes slightly and had to dress the outer edge of the flange to suit. Riveting is easy as the steel rivets should be in the "soft" condition, if not, heat to cherry red and cool slowly to anneal them.

[Paul Nott]

Thanks Bob
But how do you remove old rivets?

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Drill the heads/or tails out to weaken them.

[JonE]

From the index cards, also on the magnificent archive site LINK, which provides part numbers as well as the 'reference number' found in the parts lists.

1926-1932
Offside cam front - Reference number: BL31 - Part Number 1A4032
Offside cam rear - Reference number: BO66 - Part Number 1A4032
Nearside cam front - Reference number: BL32 - Part Number 1A4033
Nearside cam rear - Reference number: BO67 - Part Number 1A4033

1932-1936 (change given is the introduction of the wider drum and shoes)
Offside cam front - Reference number: BL76 - Part Number 1A7194
Offside cam rear - Reference number: BO149 - Part Number 1A7194
Nearside cam front - Reference number: BL77 - Part Number 1A7195
Nearside cam rear - Reference number: BO150 - Part Number 1A7195

So front and rear on a given side should be the same for pre semi girling systems. What the change in the cam was between the 1" and 1 1/4" systems I don't know.
The early parts lists only give reference numbers, and as the front cams appear with the front axle parts which all have BL prefix, and the rears with the rear axle parts all with BO prefix it confuses the fact that they are actually the same front and rear. Other parts are similarly effected with the different 'reference number' despite being the same, drums shoes etc.

Bob these are the only 2 sets of cams given, before the semi girling system. The last parts list to cover the pre girling system, as far as I can tell, is 1406A available on the archive site referenced above. This one also includes part numbers, and these along with the reference numbers, match the second set above.

Just having a look at this again. This doesn't have all the information Timothy brought together above, but what does the centre column infer here... that there were only 300 cars or so with a revised lever... that was then discontinued for the original one?
Interesting too that this doesn't refer to front or back, and yet the interpretative drawing Timothy has cracked suggests that the cam pairs must 'swap' as they move from front to rear?
   

[Bob Culver]

Dunno what characterised a BL78. Very early cars had very short arms. Rubys had long arms. No one has ever confirmed whether Ruby cams are further forward but I am curious that a long lever square to cotter drilling apparently works with the same cam.
Why are so many cars seen with long levers pointing up? Not hard to find diagrams of the normal.

[Peter Clayton]

Balancing the brakes on my RP always difficult if not impossible, I think that I have come across an influencing factor. At some time during the last 80 odd years the original axle was swapped for a later Ruby type with Girling brakes. The levers are operated using a clevis on the cables. The levers are longer than the front original Austin ones , thus a problem balancing . The question I am left with is , do I fit long front levers or short rears  to achieve equal effort? If I change the rears to short levers , my preferance,  can I get them with clevis type fit or will I have to get different cables?   ( My thanks to Reckless ,Pg 4, for the guidance)

[Bob Culver]

Hi Peter

That combination is mentioned amongst all the previous above and perhaps on another recent Thread. Repeating for completeness.
Quite apart from lever length, the Girling have more leverage ie more angular travel for the same shoe movement.
The different cable line with Girlings does not help; brake cable should move in much same arc as axle, otherwise braking varies with load and bumps.
I convinced myself with my RP with Girlings that the cable would not pass under the axle as on  low Ruby and/or angle too steep so fitted the levers facing up ( cams maybe interchanged) with the cables just over axle much as original RP alignment. (Except that offset laterally. ideally need relocated guide. Mine just run straight through unguided which is not ideal. This topic was covered extensively some time ago with photos from Ruairidh). 
New cables were expensive and the original fixed ones too short so I used the original Ruby cable and made up clevis extension piece. 

You should certainly have the long levers on front. I presume there are girling and pre girling and that both useable.

I suspect short levers on rear would cause cable to rub axle tube, esp if under as on Ruby. I guess some cup to clevis adapter could be devised

One occasion where front lead may not be desirable!