BRAKES WHAT'S NORMAL

[Timothy P]

Thank you Jon, really pleased you found it was useful.

[Dave Mann]

That's a great sketch Timothy, a good sketch or photo is worth a million words.

[Paul Nott]

Hi Guy's
Reading replies to my initial post with interest.
I have now stripped the rear brakes, purchased new drums from Tony and had the shoes relined by Saftek with 'green gripper'
I can recommended Saftek, quick turn a round and a very pleasant company to deal with.
My question is when refitting the shoes should they be flat against the cam flats ? At present my cams are slightly turned and new drums will not clear.
I suspect they should lie flat but not sure, as previously mentioned the brakes appeared to have been tinkered with in the past, n/s cable having two cable adjuster, o/s only one, but even with these removed drums struggle to clear.

[Bob Culver]

Thanks Timothy and Jon

I guess I should have done myself a drawing at the outset (as I would if it were more relevant to me). Could expand it with castor and cotter directions and qualify for a PhD!

Only one question remains. Is the rear angle of tilt the same throughout? A long lever at the angle shown does not seem practicable on most as the axle tube obstructs. (Pitman book. pages 35 and 22, assuming cam is opposite anchor! Admittedly if the lever angle relative back plate is unchanged makes no difference.)

[JonE]

Paul - unless the shoes are flat against the cams, you won't have full, safe future movement of the cam as the surfaces wear. You may need to back things (cable) off elsewhere and remove other bits of shim added in the past... and it gives you the opportunity of checking where the lever ends up. The cams may need freeing off so they move easily?

Just another note about Austin part numbers ambiguity. The Platts (mid 1980s) part numbers confirm that cam pairs are the same for 1 and 1 1/4". i.e. that they are interchangeable.

["Slack Alice" Simon]

One of the ways cams can be sticking is that the inner round flat bit of the cam catches on the round recess in the back plate.

This in turn means there is no end float in the shaft of the cam, so the lever also may stick against the inner side of the backplate.

You are implying that you do not have adjustable cables, so you can't let out more cable to allow the cams to go flat against the shoes.

If the cables have had adjusters on them they will be kinked, and will lengthen as the kinks straighten with use.

Even if you think you have bent them flat again, they won't be.

Can any of the cotters on the levers on the cross shaft be changed around to give you a bit more length on the cables?

Simon

[AustinWood]

It there have been adjusters on the cables they are probablty kinked where they have been. This effectively shortens the cable leading to the brakes being slightly on. They'll probably relax in use.

[Paul Nott]

Simon, I can let out more cable at the cross shaft coupling and this will probably give me more travel at the cam, but with cable adjusters previously being fitted I'm thinking it may be best to replace the cables.
I've noticed the brake pedal rod is also rusty so I may as well replace that as well.

The wheel studs are loose, so they may as well be changed, these studs are riveted to the hub do you know the procedure to replace? Not much information in the red book.  

Many thanks.

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Hi, Paul

It depends where you are with the state of the car.

If you are doing a full rebuild, without wanting to use it, then new brake cables and replacing studs are probaply what you want to do.

If you want to use the car for a bit, then don't bother with either.

The cables will settle down with a bit of use, and if you have adjustable inboard ends then you can fiddle about and get them to work.

I think a previous recent thread on the forum was of the opinion that loose studs don't matter, of themselves, because they play no part in locating the wheel.

I had a head pull off one, which is a different problem.

They are rivetted on, I think you just put the back of the rivet against something solid and hit the free end with a suitable (ball pein) hammer.

If the rivet is red hot whilst you do this, so much the better.   But difficult to do, and not essential, I think.

Cheers

Simon

[Reckless Rat]

And you've got to take the hubs off to do it, which on the rears means probably disturbing something that's best left alone (hub nuts/half shaft taper/keyway) unless of course you're already going down that road for other reasons.