Brake Cam Lever. cotter pins & bushes

[seajayare]

Are there any tricks to getting the cotter pins out of the brake cam levers? I can't even get a good swing at mine because of the bodywork! If I do manage to get the cams and levers apart is the bush a straightforward thing to replace or do you need a press and reaming tools? If you can't replace the bushes with the axle in place I don't think I will bother taking the cotter pins out!

[Reckless Rat]

If it's for the rears, take the brake drum off and rotate the lever 180°. You'll find it's easier. On the fronts the cotter nuts should be to the front so easy to get at.

[Ian Williams]

Chris, to have effective brakes it is vital you remove all wear and play in the mechanism, persevere! A decent drift helps

[Peter Britton]

Chris, to have effective brakes it is vital you remove all wear and play in the mechanism, persevere! A decent drift helps

I don't like hammering things, as I find it causes collateral damage more often than not.  I improvise using a ball joint splitter with a large nut that fits over the end of the cotter pin and acts as a spacer with a hole that you can push the pin through.  Unscrew the cotter pin nut until it is flush with the end of the thread and press on that with the ball joint splitter, thus pushing the pin through the lever.  If you don't have a ball joint splitter, anything that can apply a force will probably do the job, such as a strong G-clamp or a large pair of mole grips.

- Now edited to add diagram

[seajayare]

that's a very professional diagram! I will see if my ball joint spltters will fit I hadn't thought if using them. cheers

[Bob Culver]

Getting somewhat ahead, but the matter of which way round cotters go was debated at length some time ago. The drawings in Austin handbooks show front nuts to rear, although the reverse may be helpful for worn pre Girling brakes. In the operated position levers should be forward of vertical but not much so.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

If I do manage to get the cams and levers apart is the bush a straightforward thing to replace or do you need a press and reaming tools?

Most of the can bushes available now are oilite - these should not be reemed, I use the the old brake cam as a drift to drive them in and then fit the new cam in its place.

Some rear axles were originally fitted with thin bushes which are no longer available (so far as I know), I have always drilled these out to suit the thicker and more common bushes.

With reference to the cotter removal. I have always found it easier to remove with the hubs complete with brake shoes and drum in place. I have a long (2-3’) drift into the end of which I have drilled a shallow hole. This is placed snugly over the threaded end of the cotter (with nut removed), after which a very sharp strike with a lump hammer usually sees the thing come out like a Polaris missile across the workshop floor, never to be seen again! The length allows for ease of access in tight space and also a clean strike away from bodywork and wheels etc. The hole prevents it slipping off.

With reference to the cotter nut orientation I believe factory drawings of the semi girling system show the front cottrrs have nuts rearward (not sure from memory of the rear orientation on this system) and I have always been led to believe that Austin brakes are front cotter nuts forward and rear ones facing rearwards.

[Adrian Payne]

With reference to the cotter removal.  I have always found it easier to remove with the hubs complete with brake shoes and drum in place.  I have a long (2-3’) drift into the end of which I have drilled a shallow hole.  This is placed snugly over the threaded end of the cotter (with nut removed), after which a very sharp strike with a lump hammer usually sees the thing come out like a Polaris missile across the workshop floor, never to be seen again!  The length allows for ease of access in tight space and also a clean strike away from bodywork and wheels etc.  The hole prevents it slipping off.

I use the same method as Ruairidh but weld a nut of the same thread on the end of the drift. This holds everything in the correct alignment and stops the cotter flying off.

[seajayare]

The ball joint splitter works really well on the rears but it wouldn't fit the fronts so the fronts I have drifted out as there is room to swing a hammer at the front!

Is this a thin bush? How do you get them out? 
   


Newbie question: If I don't have brake adjusters do I have a non-girling setup? l don'twant to order up the wrong bits

[Ian Williams]

Quote R Dunford
"Some rear axles were originally fitted with thin bushes which are no longer available (so far as I know), I have always drilled these out to suit the thicker and more common bushes."

Ruairidh, I have found it quite easy to make the thin Zinc bushes from Zinc sheet. Cut material to width fold a 1/16" flange using a couple of bits of angle iron in the vice, trim to length and wrap the section around a mandrel, you can close it tightly with a small hose clip. I use the same method to make brake cross shaft bushes, the Zinc sheet is available here from roofing suppliers amongst others.