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Groaner's Corner
#51
(24-01-2019, 09:26 AM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: "Hair Shampoo"?  No, you've lost me there - I even asked my father, not a clue?  Remind me again please?

Aye, when you were a lad and I was......well, younger...........

Mind you even I can't remember Ian with hair... Smile
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#52
(24-01-2019, 09:44 AM)Parazine Wrote:
(24-01-2019, 09:26 AM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: "Hair Shampoo"?  No, you've lost me there - I even asked my father, not a clue?  Remind me again please?

Aye, when you were a lad and I was......well, younger...........

Mind you even I can't remember Ian with hair... Smile

Would this work? Beard shampoo

It's what the real Aussie men use apparently?!?
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#53
Amazing - will try and let you know if I turn into a real Aussie!
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#54
In my motorcycle days, Ivory dish soap was the trick on wheels and tyres, especially for changing a tyre on a rim. Slick as snot, and "gentle on the hands" as the old commercials proclaimed.

Erich in Seattle
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#55
Thank you Timothy P, Reckless Rat and Howard Wright for your kind words of welcome. I shall take Timothy's advice and start a new thread.
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#56
The bee's knees in rubber lubrication: https://agscompany.com/product/ru-glyde-...pail-8-lb/ I can remember the smell of it from the "old days". Or, liquid, like this: https://brocksperformance.com/ru-glyde-t...oz-bottle/ . The paste was fun to use (play with). Enjoy, Mike
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#57
I have for decades done my own tyre changes on family cars. Soap and detergent seemed to contribute to rusting and I could find no local alternative so used  rubber grease, but it is expensive. One disadvantge is that it causes old fashioned patches to perish/lift, so not ideal for impecunious souls with old tubes.. (However getting tyres off is the main challenge and so can clean everything after. very little needed for assembly) 
Old style heavy walled 19" tyres are no mean challenge.
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#58
(07-01-2019, 09:07 PM)Steve Jones Wrote: I have a 1931 long nose torque tube assembly complete with pinion, bearings etc. Someone in the past has fitted the LH thread ring with Loctite and the only way I can get it to move at all is to heat the the thing with the Oxy/Acetylene torch!! Even then, as soon as it starts to cool it seizes solid again. I've moved the thing about half a turn so far and now put it on one side for another day. I know Woodrow says this is the way but, perhaps, the odd dab, not a complete bottle full!

Steve

Update: Having put the torque tube away for 'another day', that day arrived yesterday. More heat, lots more heat, and the ring was persuaded to move. Turns out it's RH thread which, given that it's an early long nose torque tube, probably, fits. Still took an awful amount of heat and a lot of work to get the thing to move any distance. Eventually, it came up hard against the outer of the rearmost pinion bearing and wouldn't go any further. That's usual and to move the ring any further, normally requires a light tap with a soft faced hammer on the other end of the pinion such that the A/C bearings move out of their housing thus creating more clearance. Tried that, nothing happened. Gave up for the day!

Today, continued but the A/C bearings wouldn't move. Starting to suspect more Loctite Sad . In the end, the only way forward was to put two cuts 180 degrees apart in the bearing outer and split it off. Lever off the bearing cage and balls and the ring should now unscrew over the end of the pinion. Not so, but more heat and, eventually, the ring was off. 

One thing that is obvious with Loctite is that when you heat a component that's fixed with it it gives off a particular smell. Heating the A/C bearing housing produced that smell so my fears were confirmed. Not only has the idiot who put this thing together (not me!!) used Loctite of a very high grade to fasten the ring in place, he's also glued the A/C bearings into their housing with it. Probably glued the small bearing at the other end in as well Angry Angry .

Torque tube now put away for 'another day', again, whilst I come up with a plan to release the bearings from their housing. However, whatever it might say in Woodrow, the lesson here is never, ever, put Loctite anywhere near a torque tube assembly!

Steve
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#59
Steve, Geoff Halstead recently put something on the groaner a corner thread giving advice on how to remove things where Loctite has been used. It maybe helpful to you if you have not seen it.

John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
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#60
(29-01-2019, 07:56 PM)John Mason Wrote: Steve, Geoff Halstead recently put something on the groaner a corner thread giving advice on how to remove things where Loctite has been used. It maybe helpful to you if you have not seen it.

John Mason

Yes, I've seen that and agree that it should work. Regretfully, there's a multitude of grades of Loctite and in this case I've bee using oxy-acetelyne that is a lot hotter than propane and even that has only, just, released  the ring. I'm now in a position where bearings have been glued into a blind housing with no way of getting heat to where it needs  to be other than heating the outside of that housing. If that did cause the Loctite to give then experience with the securing ring says that it will only be 'just. To move the bearings in that situation would involve hitting the opposite threaded end of the pinion, hard, and that's only going to destroy that end and thus the pinion. I fear this might be the end of the road for this assembly which is such a shame. 

Steve
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