Wheel hub bearing removal

[Biddlecombe]

           

Having found oil all over the rear nearside brakes and successfully removed the hub and brake shoes etc. I have ordered the necessary modern lip oil seals, washer, paper gasket and brake shoes, axle case gasget and diff lip seal, I have come to remove the old felt seals and bearing.
Working on the therory that a question only sounds daft if you know the answer can I ask members for advice on safe removal of the bearing when the old felt seal seems to be obstructing it from being pushed out. Sorry if this has been covered somewhere but I can't find it. I would prefer not to replace the existing bearing.
Peter

[Steve Jones]

A short length of tube of a similar(ish) OD to the bit of the bearing inner that's visible is what I use. Insert tube from rear of bearing carrier, light tap on end of tube, bearing out. They aren't held in place particularly tightly.

Steve

[Biddlecombe]

A short length of tube of a similar(ish) OD to the bit of the bearing inner that's visible is what I use. Insert tube from rear of bearing carrier, light tap on end of tube, bearing out. They aren't held in place particularly tightly.

Steve

Thanks Steve, I was afraid of seeing balls across the garage floor!

[Steve Jones]

Short lengths of tube of an assortment of diameters are useful for all sorts of things when working on Sevens.

Steve

[Chris KC]

I would put blocks of wood (or similar) under the face to take the blow rather than standing it on the studs. If the bearing is being replaced no need to worry about hitting it.

Maybe it's just the photo Peter but did that have any gasket / sealant between the two hub halves when it came apart?

[Biddlecombe]

I would put blocks of wood (or similar) under the face to take the blow rather than standing it on the studs. If the bearing is being replaced no need to worry about hitting it.

Maybe it's just the photo Peter but did that have any gasket / sealant between the two hub halves when it came apart?

Yes Chris, I havn't cleaned it up yet ready for the new one.

---

Short lengths of tube of an assortment of diameters are useful for all sorts of things when working on Sevens.

Steve

Have some of them, thanks for the tip.

[Dennis Nicholas]

Just a reminder for bearings:- the moving race is usually an easy push fit while the static race is tighter fit......in the case of the hub - outer is moving so easy push fit in hub and felt carrier; whilst inner is static so a harder fit on the axle (also in this case is held by a locking nut.
If you use a bearing with seals either side, the seals can be prised off to clean out dried up/dirty grease and re-grease, they can then be pushed back in place.

Dennis

[Biddlecombe]

Whilst I have your kind help on these pics, in the first pic the sharp eyed amongst you will notice that the brake backplate has rusted through slightly. This is the only point of thinning and rust, so can I ask that whilst I am aware replacement backplates are available, would you think a repair with Quck Steel apoxy after rust prevention etc would be an fairly successful, intermediate solution?

[Bob Culver]

Assuming it has not just been bunged up with Loctite you are fortunate the bearing is still a neat fit. It is important the felt retaining washer is retained and any gasket not so thick that the bearing is not clamped. Covered extensively in earlier posts. Provided the bearing is not rough, clearance is of little consequence; a new close tolerance bearing with no tilt is inappropriate.
Previous posts have also established that part fill of diff is adequate and necessary to limit leakage.
The perforated backplate seems an ideal use for filler. There is sure to be some other task warranting effort rather than re rivetting back plate. Signs that the drum has been rubbing.
The axle taper is vital and must be restored very tight. Perhaps leave out the split pin at least initially so can be kept tight.

[David.H]

Assuming it has not just been bunged up with Loctite you are fortunate the bearing is still a neat fit. It is important the felt retaining washer is retained and any gasket not so thick that the bearing is not clamped. Covered extensively in earlier posts. Provided the bearing is not rough, clearance is of little consequence; a new close tolerance bearing with no tilt is inappropriate.
Previous posts have also established that part fill of diff is adequate and necessary to limit leakage.
The perforated backplate seems an ideal use for filler. There is sure to be some other task warranting effort rather than re rivetting back plate. Signs that the drum has been rubbing.
The axle taper is vital and must be restored very tight. Perhaps leave out the split pin at least initially so can be kept tight.

As long as the hole is not near anything important you could drill it round & put a rubber bung in! ...or clean it up & tell people it is for cooling the brakes!