Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 507 Threads: 129
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Location: Staffordshire
Car type: Ruby mk 2
Hello people
Anyone know what the spec. is for regulator grub screws?
Ruby mark 2
Also are they the same for the lighting/ignition switch ?
Regards
Tim
PS screw dia. is 2.2mm
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 691 Threads: 37
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Location: The Scottish Border
There’s some on eBay just now
Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
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Location: Hampshire UK
Lucas tended to use brass grub screws with BA threads for terminals, if that's what you are after.
People then merrily overtightened them "just in case"
Even numbers are preferred, such as 2 BA and 4 BA, but you will need to measure one to be sure
If you are stuck, grubscrews can of course be fashioned from conventional brass BA screws chopped down and then slotted.
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 507 Threads: 129
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Location: Staffordshire
Car type: Ruby mk 2
It looks like 2.2mm is 8 ba
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Location: Dunchurch, Warwickshire
I have 2BA grub screws in stock (BG115s).
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 507 Threads: 129
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Location: Staffordshire
Car type: Ruby mk 2
I too have had problems with brass slotted grub screws !
Just starting a rewire so much interest in your difficulty.
I have missing grub screws hence my question on screw sizes.
By the way ignore my dimension (2.2mm) completely WRONG having a senior moment.
I think diameter is 1/4”
Also have found grub screws with Allen key socket these are very easy to remove/replace.
Trying to find a source for these.
Try GT 85 fluid to release your screws.
Also had some success with hot air gun gently applied.
Good luck
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Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
You can apply heat accurately and relatively delicately by cleaning the available surfaces and resting a soldering iron (with a blob of solder on it to transfer the heat) on the parts needing to be heated.
Usually the two sides of the terminal can be "sprung" can be a little, and closed up again afterwards, without lasting damage.
Simon
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Original Lucas regulators are made of Bakelite which is fairly heat resistant. Don't get out the oxy-acetylene, but 100 degrees C from a hot air gun should be OK.
Otherwise it might be a case of some "Dremel Dentistry" until the screw is hollowed out enough to collapse inwards.
Or, this might be one of the few cases where a left-handed screw extractor actually works ?
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I could imagine that a left handed screw extractor (which, I should make my position clear, are the work of the devil) would tend to expand a brass grub screw and push out the sides of the terminal. I don't think I would be tempted to try that route...