Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 782 Threads: 26
Reputation:
8
Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
I had the same problem.
I freed the cable by cutting a slot in the top of the post, down to the hole, cut undersize and then filed out, so the inner can be released, whilst the outer is retained when all is set up.
I need to do the same at the other (chassis) end, too, but one end is enough to sort the asssembly out.
I can't remember if there is a nut on the inside, if the backplate is threaded I don't see why a locknut on the outside shouldn't be used, particularly as to get the cable fork in line with the lever, a lot of thread is showing, as in your picture.
Simon
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,713 Threads: 47
Reputation:
25
Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
As these kits were fitted by owners you are dealing with their own interpretation as to how they should be fitted. I see no reason for not simply drilling a clearance hole and putting a lock nut inside, this is how you have to install them with a semi grilling backplate as there is simply not enough metal to tap a thread.
Black Art Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,018 Threads: 53
Reputation:
5
Location: The delightful town of Knaresborough, North Yorkshire
Ian,
Drilling a clearance hole and putting a nut on the back is an obvious good fix, but there is a good reason why not to do this. To get the nut on would seem to need removal of the hub and brake shoes. I'm asking "is this really necessary?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,713 Threads: 47
Reputation:
25
Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
Obviously that is ultimately your call Andrew, I just know what I would do, in the greater scheme of things it is relatively quick and easy to remove a front hub.
Black Art Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,004 Threads: 168
Reputation:
37
Location: Sherwood Forest
Car type: 1938 Talbot Ten Airline
Andrew,
I'm sure best engineering practice will dictate a lock-nut preferably on the inside, but as long as the tapped thread in the back-plate is sufficiently strong, you cannot turn turn it without removing the cable first so it's not going anywhere ...
Joined: May 2020 Posts: 3 Threads: 2
Reputation:
0
Location: Chorley, Lancs
Car type: 1934 Ruby
09-05-2020, 10:31 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-05-2020, 10:33 AM by Dave Broadbent.)
First day on the forum and I saw your post, Matt Harnden, regarding Bowdenex brakes. I am building a 2 seater from a box of 1934 Ruby parts - including what I understand to be a Bowdenex conversion for the front brakes. All I have is the cables with no idea how these cables are run. so your offer to supply a few photos of your installation and any useful tips would be hugely appreciated.
I look forward to hearing from you ,
Dave
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 313 Threads: 9
Reputation:
6
Location: TINOPAI NZ
HI ANDREW,
Personally i would follow Ians advice drill a clearance hole and fit a lock nut, my reasoning is you will then lock the cable support hard against the back plate at the right angle,
Re your question having to remove hub and bearings this will not be the first time when rebuilding a car that these things have to happen to make sure that you are using best practice and will give you peace of mind in the long run.
ONE THING you do need is Patience.
COLIN
NZ
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 74 Threads: 10
Reputation:
1
Hi Dave, I fitted Bowdenex cables a couple of months back. Like yourself I only had the cables so had to make up the other parts which wasn't too difficult to do. Having read the mixed opinions on the conversion I wanted to make sure it could easily be put back to standard but on the limited testing I managed before lock down was pleased with the results. Happy to PM you any pictures that may help. In response to the earlier question I threaded the back plate, used a lock nut with lock tight and peened over the end of the stud lightly as I really didn't fancy the nut coming loose in the brake drum!
