1928 Chummy fabric joint replacement

[jboy964]

Advice needed please regarding the removal and replacement of the fabric coupling on my 1928 Chummy. Woodrow says undo the three bolts securing the propshaft to the coupling and move the propshaft backwards to clear the bolt heads. Ha! What do I do when there is not enough clearance between the shaft and the bolts? With the propshaft all the way home in the U joint I still need a good 1/4 inch to clear. I’m thinking ease engine and gearbox forward slightly?

Just a thought, the car is light, stripped out at the moment and sitting high on its suspension. Would that make a difference?

Thanks, John

[Derek Sheldon]

I suspect that is the only way to do it.

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Or undo the other end as well and drop the shaft. 

Mark the position of the parts so they go back in the same place.

Simon

[jboy964]

Or undo the other end as well and drop the shaft. 

Mark the position of the parts so they go back in the same place.

Simon

Thanks Simon, I will give that a try.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

Removing the rear pot as described by Simon makes the job easier for sure if the prop won’t go all the way back (the small variety of lengths can mean you may have one slightly too long fitted).

Before refitting I always open the holes in the fabric coupling up slightly to allow everything a bit of room to move into place.

[Nick Turley]

Advice needed please regarding the removal and replacement of the fabric coupling on my 1928 Chummy. Woodrow says undo the three bolts securing the propshaft to the coupling and move the propshaft backwards to clear the bolt heads. Ha! What do I do when there is not enough clearance between the shaft and the bolts? With the propshaft all the way home in the U joint I still need a good 1/4 inch to clear. I’m thinking ease engine and gearbox forward slightly?

Just a thought, the car is light, stripped out at the moment and sitting high on its suspension. Would that make a difference?

Thanks, John

Strongly suspect that you have the wrong length of shaft as Mr Dunford suggests. I would sort that out if it were mine. It could make a rather loud graunching noise when the suspension is compressed. If your ride height is too high
at the rear it may be avoiding this at the moment. But when is correct it will be a problem and cause extra strain on the fabric joint.

[squeak]

Have you jacked the chassis up at the rear allowing the wheels to droop, and move the torque tube further rearwards?

[Barker]

I've found it easier to undo the 4 nuts holding the rear universal joint socket which holds the sliding blocks at the end of the drive shaft. The shaft will just drop out and enable you to withdraw and replace the fabric joint.

[jboy964]

I have the propshaft out now, removing the Cardan housing made it easier. For what it’s worth the propshaft is 19.5 inches long and has the same patina as the rest of the underside, so could be original, who knows. Raising or lowering the rear of the car makes no difference to the distance between the u joint and the gearbox rear spider, just alters the angle that the shaft exits the u joint. The engine and gearbox have been out recently though, so I’m thinking that I may try to shift them forward a bit to give more clearance. Another observation is that the new fabric coupling bolts are longer than those removed! Every day is a school day when you own a seven...