Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Your water leak in my view is a result of gasket failure. Water in the plug holes should not get into the engine because of the compression washers on the plugs. The water in the plug holes can have come from a number of sources. You may wish to check the top hose. Water outlet gasket and tightness. The water may even have been the result of careless rad filling.
When you have dried everything out I would reassemble with a copper type head gasket but first smear a little GP grease on both sides. Tighten the head in the correct sequence until all are hand tight. You will need to go around them a few time to get them all tight.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,418 Threads: 107
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Yes there are at least 2 leaks - one from the hose connection / manifold above the head and one in the gasket most likely around the water passage between 2nd & 3rd cylinder I suggest. This is not unusual after rebuild even with fresh gaskets - it normally takes me a few runs and a bit of re-tightening here and there to stem all the dribbles. If you haven't got to that stage yet it may be better to drain down before leaving the car for long.
Jon, how are you judging there is no water in the oil?
In theory it should settle to the bottom around the drain plug, I would gently loosen this and see if any water comes out.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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ok, thanks both - will let a dash of drain plug out to check oil/water. I'm presuming if it then runs in due course, if it had water still in it would get like an emulsion? I have drained down at present, yes.
The other thing I notice is that on the head, there isnt much metal on the head between the central/narrow gauge water passage hole and the stud hole. i.e. there is a bit of corrosion that means its dips away all around the holes. Does the head need to be skimmed because of that?
I'll put some gasket seal on the top hose fitting too next time.
If head DOES need a skim ideally, then perhaps I will just put the new Ricardo on and be done with two potential problems.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,418 Threads: 107
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Jon it will only emulsify ('mayonnaise') if it runs in that state. Until then you will / may have pockets of water lurking most likely in the sump.
I do all I can to avoid skimming blocks and heads. It may provide a solution but it will raise your compression ratio. If it can't be made to seal with sealant or grease, I have in the past drilled out the offending opening and screwed in a plug, then re-drilled. It is not ideal but may rescue a cherished head. Of course the plug has to be flush and this is also a good way to distort the head, so you may end up skimming anyway; but at least there will be metal there to skim. If you have a better head....yes.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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ok, so just try "extra" grease in the specific depression, or use the silicone gasket stuff instead? Can I use a combination?
Yes, will let out some from sump plug, but then monitor when first running. Or doe I really need to let ALL the (new..) oil go?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,418 Threads: 107
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Personally I'd carefully clean the mating faces, use a new gasket with grease on both sides, torque down the head gradually and carefully to 20lbft. following correct sequence. Assuming the head is not so eroded of course that a seal is impossible...
I don't know how to guarantee there's no water in the sump but - personally - I'd see if any comes out of the drain plug and once that (if any) has gone I'd give her a try. I have in the past driven 1000 miles home with a leaking head gasket, though the bearing shells had clearly suffered when I subsequently stripped down.
On first start up I usually start the engine then fill the radiator as soon as she's running. Avoids a potential repetition of this but with no start.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
i used the copper silicone recommended elsewhere on my head gasket when I changed heads on my daughters RP. Which was leaking oil into the coolant.
it turns out that there was a great lump missing out of the head so that was likely the problem.
nevertheless I was impressed with the copper silicone. nice to spread thinly. And seems to have sealed very well. no leaks at all after installation. Though I have not yet put antifreeze in (its drained). Ive been trying to flush the oil out of the coolant side before I do that.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
half an hour with some carborundum on a plate of glass will improve that a great deal
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I once lapped a warped head on my landlord's plate glass mirror, the head was serviceable after but the mirror wasn't!
Nowadays I lap on an old iron surface plate (eBay) which is not perfect but near as makes no difference. I lay a sheet of abrasive paper on top of it (grit up!) and give it a good squirt of WD40 for lubrication. That way the surface plate stays flat. For larger parts I have used abrasive paper from a floor sander. Keep rotating the part and the imperfections should even out. Not as flat as milling but a useful tool for a light clean-up.
