Gearbox thrust washer

[Chris KC]

Last night I looked at installing the selectors. I installed them loosely, without balls and springs, just to check I had everything put together correctly and yes, I can see it is all working properly. I was wondering if you should build up with bronze then file back the selector arms but wear on those didn't seem to make much difference, the bigger factor for how much the gear stick wobbles is seemingly the arms on the interlock plate.

I was looking at how you get the balls and springs in and tried one and gave the shaft a tap with the hammer. Nothing moved. Gave a bigger tap. Slight movement. Gave an even bigger tap and again SPROINGGGGGG! 1st speed synchro moved to far and springs and balls everywhere again (inside the box of course so none lost). I can see why people don't like fiddling with gearboxes!

All apart again. I can pull the thing apart now in 5 minutes or so. So that all redone and all back together. That I can also do pretty quickly now I know how to do the fandango to get it all back together (I took pics I will put on my web site later).

I decided to make the little tool shown in the Woodrow book but instead of metal I have modelled up and 3D printed some. No idea of that will work. I don't see why not. Will try that tonight.

Simon

Trying very hard to remember how I've done this Simon; I think I used a jubilee clip on the gears, and for the selectors if I recall correctly I stuck a long thin screwdriver up the end to hold the ball in place and 'lever it aside' while tapping through. It's a bit of a fiddle but you will soon crack it I'm sure!

[jansens]

Yes, am finding the description in Woodrow a little hard to follow. Has anyone made and used one of those tools? I guess the idea is it allows you to easily push the ball town into the hole and hold it there when you rotate it. Then when you put the shaft through a quick tap on the end of the shaft will dislodge the tool and let the shaft slip into it's place.

[Reckless Rat]

I made the tools when I rebuilt my 4 speed crash. The one for doing the selector balls worked a treat.

[jansens]

Well, gearbox done. My little 3D printed tool wasn't strong enough but I found I could use a thin brass rod to depress the ball enough to get the selector rod in place. Worked fine to get the 1/2 one in place. Got it all in fine and working. Of course then I had to take it out again because I had forgotten to put the 3/4 in place first! If it's true we learn from our mistakes I must now be some kind of gearbox expert!

But it is all done now. I was careful to make sure the synchros aren't dragging when not selected. Gear selection works although with my cut down stick and the box flopping about on the bench selecting gears was tricky. I suspect with everything bolted in the car it will be OK. Also it helps if it's all spinning too I guess. I just need to trim down some 1/4 Whitworth bolts so I can attach the top and that's done. I can bolt it to the engine.

[Dave Mann]

It gets more interesting doing it with the box in the car, you can't turn the box over to retrieve the ball & spring.

[Reckless Rat]

If you've replaced the selector detent balls and springs you may well find gear selection a bit sticky at first, particularly if you have a shortened lever. My 4 sp crash was like that for a while but it since has bedded in. Selection is very precise and there's no slop in the lever according to our facially hirsute spell master. So much better than it jumping out of 3rd!

Enjoy!

[Chris KC]

If you've replaced the selector detent balls and springs you may well find gear selection a bit sticky at first, particularly if you have a shortened lever. My 4 sp crash was like that for a while but it since has bedded in. Selection is very precise and there's no slop in the lever according to our facially hirsute spell master. So much better than it jumping out of 3rd!

Enjoy!

Yes, the lever will feel rather stiff to start with but it does eventually ease off.

By the way it's a great idea with a standard A7 gear lever to check for cracks in the vicinity of the circlip groove for the chrome gate indicator domed plate (it must be called something simpler than that?) I've had two break here - one on the way home from an MOT test (!) and one in a remote forest in Sweden (!!)

[jansens]

Dave, I found on most of the times the balls dropped out (many) they would naturally fall out the drain hole which I didn't have the plug in. One time I spend 5 minutes trying to shake the ball out of the gearbox before I realised it had already dropped out of the hole and was lying on the bench!

Reckers, the gearbox really helps show how well levers work. Since I have a remote shifter I can play with the linkage and change the pivot points if need be. They are one to one right now. With the MG I am used to a nice, tight gear shift. When I had the Chummy it really was the stick in the bucket of coal. Whatever this works out to be I should cope I guess. Am getting so close to finally having a car that runs. Been working on it 7.5 years so far.

[jansens]

I did a test fit of the gearbox on the engine and that went find but when rotated there was a point where it would 'stick'. Not stop completely but like something was catching or hitting. On taking it apart it seems like one of the taper pins on the pedal shaft was sticking out more than the other and that was just catching the toggles on the way around. I filed it down a little. The box had to come off again anyway since I remembered I need to make a windage tray and that's much easier with the engine tipped up onto the flywheel end so I can easily reach the bottom end.

It amazes me how little clearance there is on some of these parts. Like inside the gearbox the clearance between the layshaft and the casting lump inside the box where the end of the reverse shaft fits.

Are there also different clutch pedals? The shaft on the gearbox has a cutout on it, as if it is keys to something, but the pedal I have is simply round with a split and a lock bolt in it.

Simon

Simon

[John Mason]

Simon, Excuse my ignorance but what is a "Windage Tray "

John Mason