Restoring a Top Hat

[Bill Sheehan]

I didn't mention Furflex and Hidem Banding as well 

I did find Tapestry seat covering material underneath the Grannies old settee material in my RK, should have taken a photo I suppose......

Parazine - back to the chassis - as usual Nick Turley gives very good advice.  I'd like a dollar for every time I've come across repaired cracks in the same place as yours on the earlier chasses, or cracks that needed repair.   This problem was only solved by Austin when he extended (in mid-'28-on)  the vertical lips (on the flanges) further forward to about 6" ahead of the cross member.  If you're not fussed too much with originality you can always box that area underneath, where it's not normally seen.  Good Luck with the straightening, but suggest you have at least one helper, even if only to hold the torch whilst you're rivetting.  Good Luck,  Cheers,  Bill

Parazine - another thought - looking again at your early photo, I hope you're not checking the straightness or otherwise with that plank?  As Martin Prior will tell you, long boards warp and twist.  Better to align the machined edge with the rail.  Cheers, Bill

[Zetomagneto]

I didn't mention Furflex and Hidem Banding as well 

I did find Tapestry seat covering material underneath the Grannies old settee material in my RK, should have taken a photo I suppose......

Parazine - back to the chassis - as usual Nick Turley gives very good advice.  I'd like a dollar for every time I've come across repaired cracks in the same place as yours on the earlier chasses, or cracks that needed repair.   This problem was only solved by Austin when he extended (in mid-'28-on)  the vertical lips (on the flanges) further forward to about 6" ahead of the cross member.  If you're not fussed too much with originality you can always box that area underneath, where it's not normally seen.  Good Luck with the straightening, but suggest you have at least one helper, even if only to hold the torch whilst you're rivetting.  Good Luck,  Cheers,  Bill

Parazine - another thought - looking again at your early photo, I hope you're not checking the straightness or otherwise with that plank?  As Martin Prior will tell you, long boards warp and twist.  Better to align the machined edge with the rail.  Cheers, Bill

Bill, you can see clearly without the board this chassis is bent, also there is a clear kink next to the crossmember

[Parazine]

Hi Bill et al.

The board is dead straight - checked. The chassis unfortunately not so.

I've secured a pair of later side members and commenced dismantling the chassis today. Many of the rivets securing the front crossmember (which is also bent) have been welded in when the chassis was "repaired", presumably after the accident. There was an accumulation of grease over the welding so the car went back into service for a while but probably didn't handle too well, would have pulled to the kerb a bit.

Anyone have any experience of cutting down 6'9" side members to fit a 6'3" chassis? It looks like the front crossmember rivets pick up in the same place but the steering box holes will have to be "moved" by 1/4". Everything after the front crossmember is up for grabs really as I'll have to remake the ends after cutting them down to length. These will need to be done carefully, in the correct style.

[Parazine]

Managed to get away from all the seasonal festivities for a few hours today and do some work on the car. Chassis is now in bits, you can really see the "wonk" on the N/S chassis member now!


   


I have received the side members and started mocking up the chassis to see where alterations must be made. It seems that, if the datum is taken from the rearmost rivets on the front casting, everything is in the correct place except the front most rivet holes that will have to be filled and re-drilled.


   

Here's the chassis looking much straighter. I spent most of the afternoon, straightening the front crossmember, which was all out of shape, with the ball heavily bent to the N/S. It's now about 98% better so should be OK.

Might get another afternoon this week, before the family arrives at the weekend...…….

[Douglas Alderson]

Are the new rails from a long wheel base car, does that matter?

[Hedd_Jones]

Are the new rails from a long wheel base car, does that matter?

if they were, it should, they are 6 inches longer!.

[Parazine]

Well spotted, they are actually only about an inch longer but the spring mounting is 6 inches further back. The back end of the rails has to be shaped, like the 1926/7 originals, holes filled and the rear crossmember accurately placed. I can then redrill the holes in the correct position, including the hex hole for the spring bolt, before we get on to the hot rivets!

I've got a lot of metalwork to do!

[Chris KC]

There are quite a few cars running around on shortened LWB chassis frames, that's eminently do-able I believe.
The only care point I would suggest is to appropriately manage the transfer (or otherwise) of the chassis number to avoid any future paperwork issues - probably better thought about sooner rather than later.

[Parazine]

There are quite a few cars running around on shortened LWB chassis frames, that's eminently do-able I believe.
The only care point I would suggest is to appropriately manage the transfer (or otherwise) of the chassis number to avoid any future paperwork issues - probably better thought about sooner rather than later.

Indeed! Although the PO couldn't find the original chassis number years ago and the car has a V5 issued on a made up "VIN". I'm not going to rock that particular boat......

Anyhow, only 40% of this chassis will have been replaced and the original chassis number is actually stamped on the rear crossmember (I'm retaining that bit), along with the engine and body number. Just need to make sure the number is visible on the front N/S chassis rail.....

The only other point is that the later rails are about 1/8" deeper at the rear where the springs fit. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it!

[Zetomagneto]

There are quite a few cars running around on shortened LWB chassis frames, that's eminently do-able I believe.
The only care point I would suggest is to appropriately manage the transfer (or otherwise) of the chassis number to avoid any future paperwork issues - probably better thought about sooner rather than later.

Indeed! Although the PO couldn't find the original chassis number years ago and the car has a V5 issued on a made up "VIN". I'm not going to rock that particular boat......

Anyhow, only 40% of this chassis will have been replaced and the original chassis number is actually stamped on the rear crossmember (I'm retaining that bit), along with the engine and body number. Just need to make sure the number is visible on the front N/S chassis rail.....

The only other point is that the later rails are about 1/8" deeper at the rear where the springs fit. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it!

I would be trying a bit harder to retain the original rails, this Chassis is going to end up a right mishmash of parts.There are numerous points wrong with the replacement rails you have and if DVLA become involved this could turn out a right mess.
Repair and use all the original Chassis, it keeps the car original and no need to involve DVLA.
Will also make the car more valuable / saleable if you decide at some time to sell it.
I am sure that in the right hands the rails could be repaired . I know you have spent time and money so far but I am sure you could achieve a better result, a car of this rarity deserves it.
I do not know this company, but have a look, it will give you an idea of what can be done : http://www.chassisalignment.co.uk/