All Alloy Cup progress

[John Mason]

Bill I think your n/plates are fantastic. My idea is for people without your steady hand and skill.

John Mason.

[JonE]

Bill - could you not continue the modern technology and reduce all those rear light units by combining functions to improve the originality at the rear? There are some good electrickery plans that Steve Berg drew out on the Cornforth diagram to unite winkers into a dual pole stop tail function...

[AllAlloyCup]

Hi Jon

Thanks for the suggestion about lamps.
I’ve got 3 functions in the red lights already!
Stop, Tail and Number plate illumination.

I’ve used old Lucas casings throughout but
Modern LED lamps inside.

To do the indicators I fitted orange Perspex tubes
in the old housings with an ex army orange lens from a tank!

I’m still wondering where to put the front flashers?
The gE type sidelamps are too small for a dual function LED
My headlamps are NOS CAV( circa 1925!) so no extra bulb
in those.

I’ve got some Lucas side mounted scuttle sidelamps
and may use those on the scuttle as some early Austin
Cars and maybe GE’s did this for sidelamps.

Watch this space!

Regards
Bill G

[David Cochrane]

I fitted little Rubbolite lamps just under the front wings where they are visible from the front and the side but quite discreet when they are off.

[Howard Wright]

Hi All

Regarding lights I've used two Butlers lamps at the rear with three functions (side, brake and indicator) on my RK and a couple of modern indicators at the front.  However all these and the rear reflectors are easily removed to return the car to its factory state.  The two rear Butlers are fixed with a wing nut to the original numberplate mounting bar and are wired to a trailer coupling out of sight under the car.  The reflectors and front indicators are attached using strong magnets to the wings at the back and number plate at the front respectively. And yes so far the magnets seem more than adequate (they use magnets to fix the signs on the roof of taxis)

I've taken a second live from the battery to a small fuse box under the passenger seat.  This area is ideally placed as the brake switch operates off the nearside cable just under the seat and the indicator switch is between the seats. Cables run up and down the transmission tunnel to the rear trailer coupling and front bullet connectors.

I've also got a high level brake light shining through the rear window again easily removed when you want the car in "show" condition.

Credits to Dave Mann who uses a similar system with a modern light board on his car.

Also to Bill for a fabulous thread!

Howard

[AllAlloyCup]

Hi Howard and David

Thanks for the kind suggestions about
mounting ideas and generous compliments!

I’ve seen small Rubbolites mounted at the front of Sevens
but if you make it discreet then cars from the side can’t see them.

Early Factory TT cars and I think some Other Austins had
Side markers( red to rear, white to front lenses)

I may fit side markers on the scuttle where they can seen from the side, front and rear.
Using clear lenses and an orange LED.

Will try to find period photos showing sidemarkers.

Neil and myself rivetted in clutch linings today ,
Photo to follow. His later clutch had 12 rivets mine only had 6

Regards

Bill G


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Gunnar Poppe in OF1857 a TT car? On the LAT
Website has sidemarkers, plus the very early Cup YK1893
As raced at Le Mans by the man himself also had sidemarkers( note no wing sidelamps)

I’ll mock something up to see what it looks like.

Regards

Bill G

[AllAlloyCup]

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It’s been a productive few days and progress made on several fronts.

The new studs came but some not the right length
so had to cut longer threads with a die tool.
The studs are set up for a Ruby exhaust manifold
Which will carry a Morris 8 1” SU whose input flange is happily 
horizontal!

I’ve fitted a cast alloy valve chest cover from a Reliant.
Thanks Malcolm for the tip and the hint to grind off
“Reliant”! Nice cover screws from the A7 Workshop guys.

Also have rivetted in new clutch linings and about to assemble
The clutch/flywheel unit.

Lastly the Nyalic coating kit has arrived and I’ll shortly Trial it
On some bodywork parts, plus even engine bits like the valve
Chest cover as they claim it will do 175 C, anyone know
The operating temperature of the engine block/head surface?

Wiring has arrived so that will keep me busy for a few weeks 
in between Christmas shopping ...

Regards

Bill G

( not far from the site of the new border post :-) ? )

[Austin Carr]

Some interesting figures here but I assume they would have been taken from a modern engine:-

https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-temper...-an-engine

[Colin Reed]

Hi Bill,
The whole project is looking fantastic.
You might have to put that Engine in a showcase , and build another for use in the Car, I never manage to keep every thing so Tidy.
Regarding Temps
Check Mark Mckibbin post  THERMAL IMAGES

Cheers
Colin
NZ

[Michael D]

love to see all the work you are doing....thumbs up... wish I could... I wouldn't bother about. coating the engine parts.... they seem. quite polished so keeping them sort of shiny clean would only require regular wipes with the proverbial (oily) rag ....What would bother me is the.rusty looking manifold that detracts from the good looks of the rest; it's letting the pretty engine down . I'd clean that up with wire brushes or similar (some people. might wage to blast it), removing loose surface rust and then treat it to a lavish coat (being: several layers / coats....) of the highness quality gunmetal grey VHT paint you. can get. y'r hands on... But thats's just my 2 eurocents