Manifold stud removal

[Jack in the Box]

I had good success with cutting the studs down to about 50mm (2") long, giving them a few whacks with a hammer on the end and getting the mole grips out.
Alan

["Slack Alice" Simon]

The last one I did I broke off, had to drill and re-tap.   Engine still in car.

See a previous thread for what goes wrong if you drill too deeply!

Usually the gentle "cycling", together with heat and/or cold works.

But you need a lot of patience.

Clamp nuts on to the stud, or I use a new pair of mole grips.

Heat, and "cycle" ie. apply alternate clockwise and anti clockwise pressure to rotate the stud.

As much as you dare, but not enough to twist the metal of the stud.

Maybe a hundred times, nothing appears to happen.   If you get any movement after this, just a tiny bit, you will probably be successful.

I heat, apply fluid, repeat a few times.   Then, cold from a plumbers pipe freezing can.   Repeat.

Lots of patience.    And then "Snap", anyway.   Heigh Ho, that's life.

Simon

[Speedex750]

Long shot but maybe worth trying. 

https://youtu.be/KFdFsfSAuyc

Hi Alan,
Almost all the tricks are described above. I would suggest you don't dismiss heat so readily, a small propane torch will get a stud up to a cherry red colour. Once cooled re-apply a release oil and let it soak at least overnight. My 'go to' tool in these circumstances is a small pair of Stilsons, the stud is toast anyway. If it turns, don't be tempted to keep turning. Get more release oil in and give it time to get down the separated threads. I've just removed a full set of original studs getting twelve of the fourteen out. The others are right to say that redrilling isn't likely to recover the original thread, mine were close but a little too wobbley, I've used stepped studs. Don't forget to seal the threads on the new studs to stop water coming out.

I hope you get them out without too much bad language,

Dave

[Alan Ashton]

Thanks for all the advice. 

No luck so far. In the meantime I have ordered an extractor from. Machine Mart. I'll report back how successful it is.

Alan

[Tony R]

An induction heater is great for only heating the stud if you can borrow one. I might ask Santa for one at Christmas as I've got a few jobs for it. :-)

[Zetomagneto]

Alan, I wouldn't use an extractor, they don't work particularly well on small holes. You will have to drill a hole in order to use it so you may as well drill tapping size for 1/4 BSF and retap it.
You could use the manifold as a drilling guide by getting some one to turn a steel tube, OD to fit the manifold stud hole, ID 1/4 BSF tapping size.bolt the manifold back on drill , not to deep, probably no more than 3/8" then tap.If you find it difficult to tap square to the face use the manifold again as a tapping guide

[Hugh Barnes]

I hope we aren't talking about the left hand thread sort of stud extractor here. Horrible nasty things that should be banned. They snap off leaving a hardened steel 'plug' that is almost impossible to drill out. This sort of stud extrator is a far better form...


  stud extractor.jpg (Size: 16.38 KB / Downloads: 267)

[Charles P]

I hope we aren't talking about the left hand thread sort of stud extractor here. Horrible nasty things that should be banned. They snap off leaving a hardened steel 'plug' that is almost impossible to drill out. This sort of stud extrator is a far better form...

I bought a set of those recently. Bloody brilliant.
However those 1/4" studs break easily

c

[Ruairidh Dunford]

I have a set of these Hugh - imperial sizing 1/4 and 5/16 Sykes Pickervant, invaluable to me.

They are old tools and I have tried unsuccessfully to find new of same make, if anyone has leads I would be most interested.

["Slack Alice" Simon]

You can't use the "cycling" technique with that kind of extractor.

Simon