All Alloy Cup progress

[AllAlloyCup]

Hi Peter,

This alloy skin was made away from the car body
so it is temporarily screwed to the base to allow for
Adjustments.
I’m about to remove the skin from the frame and then adjust a few things,
Plus the skin itself may need a small amount of stretching and shrinking..
I have a plan to seal the edge and finish it neatly but am
Waiting on some materials before I finally commit to
Fitting and fastening it all permanently.

As it’s a”Special” rather than a pure replica
I have some degrees of freedom with my own
Design.

Bill

[Ruairidh Dunford]

I made my own piping using either 3/8 or 5/16 vacuum/washer pipe. The panel gap was not consistent enough to use a standard piping.

Bill, I notice that the boot skin does not turn over the back of the ply (I.e. is trimmed to the face of the ply). On my car, the aluminium skin is tacked on to the back of the ply, not on the edges. Some care will need to be taken to ensure that water does not get into the boot skin.

Peter

That’s my approach as well - the piping is noticeably bigger than standard wing piping etc. and for good reason.

Water ingress would be a real concern to me.

[Peter Johnson]

So far, I have been quite pleased. The piping directs rain around the opening rather than into the boot. The boot area stays surprisingly dry but does rely on the piping touching the boot lid around its perimeter.

I have used a neutral cure Dow Corning sealant on all the nail heads under the aluminium facing plates in an effort to reduce corrosion. I have used this on the nail heads under the body too. It dries to a Matt black finish, not that you can see it.

Peter

[AllAlloyCup]

Hi Peter and Ruairidh

Thanks for the constructive warnings.
Nothing has been finally decided about
this bootlid joint yet.

I’m aiming to get as close a fit as possible.
So it may take a week or so to figure it out for the
Unique alloy body build that I embarked on 3 years ago.

I always knew the tail and it’s fitting would be tricky!

Happy motoring!

Bill G

[Ruairidh Dunford]

I guessed a snug fit would work (the ones I have seen have rather pleasing suck in when closing!) - my concern about ingress, above, would be if the piping was not there.

[Peter Johnson]

I have just found the photo I was looking for. The piping was made up using 5mm washer hose.

Peter

[AllAlloyCup]

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With the new steel crank in place in the crankcase, I thought 
I’d measure up how much I need to cut 
off the long starting handle shaft that came in the box of bits.
One size seems to be 7 7/8th for a coil engine
But I thought I’d measure up in situ ( about 7 1/2”) as
The rad shell position is now Fixed! 

So now need to cut the shaft and mill a flat into the shaft
For the cotter pin that secures the handle,
Making sure that it “parks” correctly.

Assembling and fitting pistons next
While waiting for bits to fit the tail cover.

Regards

Bill G

Aka AllAlloyCup

[AllAlloyCup]

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Just fitted the bootlid, with two GE Cup catches
alloy facings and both an external and internal rubber seals.

To create a neat edge on the perimeter of
of the bootlid I’ve used a small half round
Alloy bead rivetted into the boot edge.

All non standard but this a GE Cup Special
Rather than a Replica.

Now onto the rear number plate and 
the wiring.

Regards

Bill G

[AllAlloyCup]

GH
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Made further progress on body details today.
Decided to put the 13mm alloy bead round the doors to emulate
the fabric piping on original fabric bodied Cups.

Rivetted the beading on using a jig made from an old pair of Molegrips
with 1/8” flush csk alloy rivets.

I’ve mounted the numberplate and lamps 
slightly higher to keep them clear of road muck
And at a height where following modern motorists are
used to looking!
Hope to do the other door tomorrow.

Regards
Bill G
(Aka AllAlloyCup)

[Timothy P]

Coming along in leaps and bounds Bill.
It's looking great.