(21-09-2018, 09:56 PM)Hedd_Jones Wrote: After struggling to fit 'new' studs, in my case ex John Barlow because a) the rivet holes were in the wrong place, and b) the thread was oversize so I had to run a die nut down it. I decided that in future I shall use ht cap head bolts as wheel studs suitably shaped at the head end with an angle grinder and tack welded to prevent rotation.
Has anyone ever done this.
I definitely wouldn't,waste of time using a HT Caphead or bolt and then putting heat in to it just buy decent studs from one of our cherished suppliers.
Your life, or the life of others is worth far more than a set of decent studs.
Also insurance implications, cars involved in serious accidents are impounded and subject to forensic
inspection if poor or inappropriate maintenance found i.e.bodged wheelstud things will not go well.
Even normal claims can and are voided on various grounds including inappropriate modifications.
Some figures on rivets, just for curiosity.
After another look at the situation....two of the 6 rivets supplied with the new studs would go into the holes but the rest not. Here are the measurements taken with my micrometer. using 25.4mm = 1 inch.
for reference - 1/8 inch = 0.125 = 3.175mm Two that went in
0.121 inches = 3.0734mm 0.123 inches = 3.1242mm head dia. 0.2235 = 5.6769mm
Not go in
0.127 inches = 3.2258mm 0.1265 inches= 3.2131mm head dia. 0.2510 = 6.3754mm
So perhaps not a good idea to drill out holes.......but anyway I did not have a suitable drill (I do have a fairly large selection of drills each of the sizes below 8mm stored in separate size-labeled plastic containers).
Ok I understand rivets there just to locate and hold the stud to the hub, but it would be good to buy new and just be able to do the job without having to faff around with extra time consuming work.
Here are two studs that have failed in the last thirty years of motoring
They were fitted when father and I reconditioned everything on the RN prior to putting it back on the road.
These were supplied new by a well known Austin Seven parts company and are made in one piece as per the original.
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Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
The original studs were quite ductile. Seem to depress deeply before failure and the thread usually obviously stretched.
Failure is caused by brute force over tightening and/or by fatigue. if the nuts are or ever have been sufficently slack to allow movement of the wheel, fatigue is likely. Fatigue failure is characterised by minimum distortion.
Layers of paint etc can allow slight movement. The brake drum screws must be adequately sunk. The wheel nuts must not bottom onto the drum. Can be shortend slightly.
I have seen all manner of crudities for rivets. Burred screws the usual.
My guess is Bob is right. Roly’s picture is a fatigue failure and it’s caused by insufficient clamping load. I wouldn’t be surprised if the wheel nut taper was bottoming out so the nut was tight but the wheel wasn’t clamped down.
