Wheel studs CAUTION

[Dennis Nicholas]

While re-assembling my rear hub I was just putting the nuts on the wheel studs to hold the hub tool on that allows you to hold the hub while tightening the half shaft nut.  I used moderate pressure with the spanner just to ensure the tool was reasonably tight on the hub.  Two tightened ok but the third (as always the last one!) became easy to turn....the stud pulled out of the round plate that is riveted to the rear hub half.
The new stud bought looks to be far better in that it appears to be STUD/PLATE machined out of one solid billet rather than plate with seperate stud welded in.

So CHECK YOUR WHEEL STUDS FOR BEING FIXED TO THE RIVETED PLATE.

   

   

Rude words were said while I quickly removed hub before bearing locktite could set, on shaft taper and around bearing in hub....

So how do you rivet on the new one? An anvil (5mm round) held in vice to rest the rivet head on; one hand holding hub; second hand holding drift against end of rivet; THIRD hand holding hammer to strike drift    Note that the other half can't be involved in any holding anything  steady as this has led to "heated discussions" in the past!


Dennis

[bob46320]

I think I would replace all studs on all 4 hubs. The new ones I have bought were turned from the solid. The ones you show look like they were originally threaded onto their bosses.

[Ian Williams]

Very common but not well publicised Dennis, so good on you for bringing it to the forums attention, I always check the back of the studs and replace at the first sign of any dishing.

[Hedd_Jones]

I had two on one wheel part company on a run in the midlands some years ago. The result was a ride from the RAC. The wheel stayed on however

[Robert Foreman]

The cause is due to to no radius in the corner  New ones are fine. You may need to increase the countersink in the hub though  Any radius will give strength, the bigger the radius the better.

[Dennis Nicholas]

The cause is due to to no radius in the corner  New ones are fine. You may need to increase the countersink in the hub though  Any radius will give strength, the bigger the radius the better.

Sorry not understood.  Please would you explain a bit more...........what "corner".
By "countersink in the hub" do you mean the countersink that the end of the rivet is knocked into?

Dennis

[mk1-mark]

The radius is at the base of the wheel stud where it joins the back plate.  A large radius here reduces the chance of failure. A sharp angle increases it.

The backplate may have to be countersunk to accommodate the larger fillet radius.

[Dennis Nicholas]

Thank you mk1-Mark.
Just checked and my new studs from a7c have that radius.  There also exists the countersink chamfer on the backplate.
Have just applied Wurths rust kill/prevention to bare metal and given a quick squirt of etch primer to stud and stud area on backplate....will re-apply topcoat when stud fixed in place.

Dennis

[Bob Culver]

Many acid based rust treatments should be kept from ht steel such as spokes, studs, springs as promote failure.

In my youth my car was regularly much abused; inside rear wheel lifted on switchback corners etc. Nearly every hub I had seen had slightly dished studs so I fitted an extra 3 to each wheel. My experience at the time were limited and the locations not exact so had to use flat nuts. Car is still so disfigured.

[Colin Reed]

Hi Dennis,
the previous replys  are correct regarding having a radius on a one piece stud as that is the weakest point , But the reason your two piece failed is what ever means the Factory used to fix the stud and flange together failed and allowed the stud to pull through the flange  nothing do with a radius .

Colin
NZ