(03-09-2018, 02:27 AM)Erich Wrote: In summary, synthetic tank sealers work, but only once. If there is an issue later on, the tank is junk.
Erich in Seattle
So, tank sealer can't be removed and the tank resealed again or a second coat of sealer applied even if it is the same brand?
I'll let you know. The bloke who bought the remains of a 1917 Thornycroft JType lorry off my father made his own new soldered fuel tank for it. And sloshed it for good measure. It has developed a leak and he is proposing to re-slosh it. So we shall see.
I hope, that he gets technical advice from the manufacturer before he re-sloshes the tank, it could save the price of a can of sealer. It will be interesting to know if a second coat will bond to the first coat and if yes, does the first coat need chemical of physical preparation.
Thank you Charles P, it is useful to know that old sealer can be removed.
He's a clever bloke and doesnt do things by half. He made his own patterns for the pistons. Had them cast (in iron) and then machined them.
(02-09-2018, 08:04 PM)JonE Wrote: With slight weeps from the front of my chummy tank, what are the options and the longevity of each option? It feels like the job wants doing only once.
POR15 tank sealant has been mentioned - is that fine with ethanol in others' experience?
Has anyone gone for one of the alloy tanks that were advertised in Association mag a few years back? Or are there other suppliers steel or otherwise?
thanks in anticipation... jon
Jon, P and M Radiators based at Marsham in Norfolk repair these, I have had the tank from my Chummy cleaned, soldered and repainted by them. Excellent work and not silly price, in my opinion.
Having at last got the brakes functioning I was checking the fuel system and think I need to overhaul the fuel pump.
Looking at Doug Woodrows book for reference I came across his recipe for “slosh” sealant using wood glue and black treacle !
After checking it is not 1st April I am curious to know if anyone has experience of it
presumably that advice was given initially pre-ethanol?
After what other advice I've been given, I'm still going to avoid sealants entirely now, if I can. To go to something without the modern technological testing behind it.. is that sensible?
08-09-2018, 08:47 PM (This post was last modified: 08-09-2018, 08:53 PM by Duncan Grimmond.)
I agree wiv 'im!
If the metal around any leak is thoroughly cleaned to bare metal there is no reason why a soldered patch or sweated join should not work. Use an active flux to help keep the metal clean while soldering. Remember that carrying molten solder to the area to be worked will help to transfer heat quickly to the join area. If it flows easily it will indicate that you have achieved soldering temperature. Thorough heating can be difficult to achieve but without it the sweating process will be ineffective or partial.
Make sure all trades of flux are removed after soldering as there will be acidic residues which will attack the soldered metal.
Cleanliness is essential (if not next to godliness) in any soldering operation.
(08-09-2018, 08:13 PM)Robert Foreman Wrote: Jon,
get yourself a hatchet iron and solder it. I did this for Russell when he was on his grand tour of the UK. Still holding up I believe .
I learned a new technique whilst watching Robert solder a crack in this tank. The solder failed to 'bridge' for some reason perhaps surface tension or impurities rising up through the crack. He laid a new piece of copper wire along the crack and presto the solder climbed up and over. First learned on a kettle in his youth ... I believe.
regards Russell
An update on this. The economics are interesting as clearly one wants something that isn't going to want constantly attending to, from safety and convenience.
New chummy tank in tinplate £1100 (plus VAT) from Roach. £530 in alloy from GRS Motorsport to order. Repaired secondhand tank on market c. £300 quid; professional repairs to your tank could be (say) £50-200 considering time involved; slosh ethanol-resistant sealant 35 plus personal time; soldering items plus personal time/learning.
One advice on looking at my previously botched tank was 'find another one!' (i.e. there was going to a lot of resoldering/checking to do), which I have subsequently done through a chance ebay find which holds water. So I can now take the time to fiddle/learn with my first one (and ponder the best treatment for maintaining a sound, original but externally rusty tank).
thanks all.
I don't know a single person who has been 100% satisfied with a tank "repair" using Poor15. At best the seal lasts a few months, at worst it shells off more or less straight away. It is more hassle than it's worth when you can get a traditional repair made for a bit more money that will last another 80 odd years.
