What to pay for an Ulster replica

[Ian Williams]

Personally for a first seven I would not recommend buying this car, there is something wrong with the bonnet fit, and I agree with others that the car is built on the remains of a 37 Ruby. Do not be swayed by a shiny paint job, although perfectly good for a museum display I would anticipate that a lot of money would need to be spent to make this into a good usable car. As other have said post some more pictures and we will be able to provide an better informed opinion.

[Austin in the Shed]

If I were you I would drive the car if possible before considering purchasing it.There is a lot of difference between a pre war and 50's-70's classic car in the way it drives,and Austin Sevens  I think are a bit like marmite . you may love them or hate them.
As said before the car looks as if it could be late 30's,a clue may be later steering wheel/instruments ,D type rear axle.

[Jeff Taylor]

Ok, thanks for input. I was maybe not quite clear in what im looking for. I know its not an Ulster and it never will be. Im not looking to buy an Ulster (way to expensive), I just like the look of Seven with this body type.
According to owner the paint is 30 years old but almost spotless, and no dents and no repair on body has been done. Car has been stored on a museum for 15 years. I do not know any with knowledge about Sevens (there is not that many in Denmark), but having rebuild two Jag e-types im experienced with classic cars in general. I will receive chassis number and more pictures in a few days. I believe asking price will be around 10k £.
So my question is, what is estimated value of an "Ulter like replica" like this car, assumed the car is running and in good condition, including body and paintwork?

There's an Austin 7 Club in Denmark - Dansk Austin Seven Register - and also the - Dansk Austin Klub - see links below:

http://www.austinseven.dk

http://www.danskaustinklub.dk

[Erich]

One other thing I'll add is about the general appearance and the difference between SWB and LWB. As well the size of the wheels. While this may seem somewhat academic, the Ulster style body just doesn't look "right" to many when on a LWB chassis. As well with less than the 19 X 3.50 inch wheels, the thought that you could swap them out may not be easily possible if the wings have to be moved, etc. And completely agree with Austin, drive it first. Although I am quite new to Sevens, I had a pretty good idea what to expect. They are not like really any postwar car or even some cars from the late thirties.

I'll add that if you are looking for an Ulster style special, rather than a close clone to an original car, the options increase.

Erich in Seattle

[Robert Leigh]

How long is a piece of string. This isn't an Ulster replica. Its an Ulster style special and I strongly suspect it's 1937 and not 1927 as the chassis looks to me to be a LWB with Ruby wheels. The bonnet and scuttle are elongated to allow for the longer chassis.

One question I would ask is have you seen the registration document, and what's the provenance of the car, for example what is it based on, who built it and when. 

Get someone who knows Austin Sevens to look at and assess the car.

Many A7 specials that come on the market are ridiculously overpriced, particularly those on the continent.

Caveat emptor.

Look more carefully at the wheels; they appear to be 16" to me. Who am I to get involved? My Ulsteroid has 15" wheels!
Robert Leigh

[DavidL]

Is it the angle the photo is taken from or is the rad shell higher than the scuttle?

Perhaps another way to ask the question is "who is this car going to suit?" Its stood a while so should assume there's going to a prolonged period of snagging, perhaps a major rebuild of "something" be that an axle, box or engine. The new owner should be willing to be a "test driver" and either have access to a specialist or the sorting and learning curve is all part of the fun. If so will need space to work on it and be willing to acquire the tools. The finish might be good, but the fit doesn't look so good. Will there need to be a new rad shell and a new bonnet to get it all in line? Will there be a few weekends of shimming the body on the chassis to get to a better starting point? The seats look at an odd angle...are they too big to fit so set skew on blocks? Are they broken? Perhaps new seats will need to be made, perhaps those will do with some adjustment.

Before doing anything you need to be sure you fit...that can be shoe size as much as leg length or girth.

Accepted wisdom is that the three bearing engine won't last. Some do if looked after, and that means not bolted down tight but as a result the front of the chassis will be very floppy. There are ways and means to put the stiffness back, and if research and development are all part of the fun you'll get there and enjoy the car getting better and better with each step. Most with a three bearing engine in a special will be collecting bits for "the next engine", and relative to a sorted and on the button car this one needs to be priced to reflect that.

Long wheelbase has its advantages, there's more space between the wheels for a start. Improved rear damping. Its going to have four speeds and likely some syncromesh. There's a bit more rubber on the road and more rubber between wheel rim and road.

Another long-term option if it is "just a special" is that other engines will fit...

David

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The indicators imply someone has been using it on the road, its not just a pile of leftover bits.

Having stood that long price in a set of tyres.

[Chris KC]

Accepted wisdom is that the three bearing engine won't last.  Some do if looked after, and that means not bolted down tight but as a result the front of the chassis will be very floppy.  There are ways and means to put the stiffness back, and if research and development are all part of the fun you'll get there and enjoy the car getting better and better with each step.  Most with a three bearing engine in a special will be collecting bits for "the next engine", and relative to a sorted and on the button car this one needs to be priced to reflect that.

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David,

It's fairly well understood now that 3 bearing engines last just fine if they are built properly. In brief this means (i) starting with a crank which isn't already cracked and (ii) making sure the centre bearing is in line with the other two. The Australians are producing new 3 bearing cranks (see parallel thread) and using them very successfully I gather.

Your comment re this particular car may very well be correct as the above does not seem to be widely appreciated, and if it's just been slapped together it won't last long.

Whether you have a three bearing or two, I would not advise bolting all four engine mountings firmly to the chassis.

[Tony Betts]

For me I'm not a fan of marmite

Does anyone remember the half finished Ulster rep / special that went into brightwells during the summer. I think it sold for around £12k.

On that basis, if this car is bought for £10k running. I don't think you would loose sticking it in auction. It may fetch £15k

But if you are looking at it for yourself, you have to think about what you actually want. 

If you like the shine and colour, and want something to polish. And like the shape. It's the car for you.

If you want to use it, you may want to think a bit longer. As suggested above 3 brg engine "IF" built properly can be good engines. "IF"

However if you are going to use it, you will want to go faster than a standard 35mph 3 brg Ruby. I know they actually go faster than that. But so does your modern, it doesn't meen you drive it at full speed.

If the car was built over 30 years ago, then it doesn't have a pheonix crank. So, When it goes bang, do you have the knowledge and £3.5k for the rebuild parts. Or will you be saying how much to one of the many engine builders that charge £5k to £7.5k for a sporty rebuild.

And that's all on top of what it's going to cost to recommission the car for the road.

Good ones do go for £20k to £30k. As long as it's a good one. Not a wolf in sheeps clothing.

We are building one at the moment to sell next year, 1931 chassis with sports V5c. Pigsty engine correct reverse facing engine with pheonix crank, don rawson c/R gearbox, hodgeson banjo rear axle. Compensated brakes, correct lowered column, original Ulster steering wheel. 40+year old unused body. All correct dials. And it just goes on and on. And that's why good ones sell for £20k to £30k.

Good luck, Tony.

[JonE]

There was a honest looking green Gould Ulster up in Glasgow a few months back which looked the part except a ratty hood. Hadn't been used much in recent years and I think got put in auction subsequently... where it again didn't sell. I know people don't necessarily like fibreglass, but that seemed mighty good value for 8 or 9k for its swb correctness. Anyone buy it in the end?

[Lemser]

Thanks for all the input and good advices. For some reason the seller is not willing to share VIN number or send any other pictures of car, so the deal is off. 

Kind regards Per