Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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Car type:
longevity is most important!
Lloyd Bryan in Tunbridge Wells has been mentioned to me elsewhere... I'll ring him.
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I must confess that I am in the get it soldered by someone who can do that properly camp.
Slosh is in my view something that can come off and then to clean the tank becomes a big big problem, I did such a thing on my RP tank never again !
I had the end of the tank removed in order to get in to clean it properly. Once clean and the end refitted I vowed never to use slosh again, it proved to be a nightmare job.
I do however have friends that swear by slosh but it is not good in my experience and once in it is difficult to remove.
When the car is left standing over winter, I always make sure the tank is full of petrol and put Millers "tank safe" in.
Since adopting this practice I have had no issues and no dirt in the carburettor on front tank sevens and I do not use an extra filter.
Hope personal view is useful.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 686 Threads: 112
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Charles, have you used this product? If it does work, then I could save myself from having a new tank made. And Nick might not have had to remove the end of his tank.
Erich in Seattle
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03-09-2018, 05:32 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-09-2018, 05:33 PM by Charles P.)
Haven't used it Erich but there are a number of manufacturers of similar products so I assume its not snake oil
Cheap enough to try
Charles
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 686 Threads: 112
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Keep me and all of us posted Hedd. My issue, is that I still believe terne plate or solder to be the most effective fix or original construction. Given that the original owner "fixed" the tank with Slosh, and it is now a sieve, it has lifted the paint everywhere in the cockpit and the engine bay, as well as giving me the willys.
Erich in Seattle