Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 123 Threads: 23
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Location: Doncaster, gateway to northern civilisation
Having changed the oil after an engine rebuild 500 miles ago and finding half a gudgeon pin pinchbolt tab washer in the old oil I managed to find out which of the conrods it came off, with the aid of a flexible camera and a very bright light. I will be removing the head and poking the conrod up to replace said tabwasher.
My question is, and bear in mind I'm from Yorkshire, can I reuse the relatively new head gasket or do I have to splash out on another new one?
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
What amazes me is that you can remove the pistons through the top of the bores. On my engine the big ends are to large to pass through the bores.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 117 Threads: 8
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Location: NE England
There's no definite answer to this. There's a few variables, especially how flat the head and block are and how distorted the gasket comes up but my experience is that the new gaskets aren't as forgiving as the old copper and asbestos ones. While it may not have done many miles it has been compressed. So it depends on your appetite for risk compared to the cost of a new one. As written on other threads the Loctite paste seems to be very good and if your studs and holes are countersunk with solid studs and good threads repetitively re-tensioned you may get away with it. If you just go to the pub and back it may be worth trying; halfway round the world definitely not.
Dave
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 123 Threads: 23
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John, once the baffles have been opened up the con rod lifts through very easily once the lower shell has been removed.
Speedex, thanks for the warnings. I'm very fond of this gasket. It was one of Tony Betts' Payen gaskets! I might take the risk of using it again. I have only one trip planned before the end of the season, and if it misbehaves I can renew it over the autumn months.
Thanks one and all.
Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 5,443 Threads: 231
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Location: Scotchland
Mick,
if it is a pukka Payen gasket - soak in water for a few days and then allow to dry, this will allow it to expand a little before refitting.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Traditionally , re use was assumed. Hence advice to fit with a trace of grease.
If I had purchased a new gasket every time I had the head of the Seven or later Jowett i would now be living in a State house (and thus have time to play with my cars).
Extreme nut tensions stress the casting, distort valve seats, and excessively crush gaskets.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 986 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
I reuse head gaskets multiple times. Provided the head and block are sound it shouldn't be a problem.
For both new and used gaskets I simply smear lightly with grease and have never used sealant.
Jim
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 562 Threads: 56
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Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
I'm intrigued how this remnant found its way into the sump, or have you dispensed with the sump gauze?
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Have you thought of lifting the block and head off the engine,including manifold and carbs.
sorting out the pinch bolt then fit new base gasket and refit the block.
No need to butcher the oil baffles or take the head off.
Re fitting the block is an art form though you need blocks of wood, two ring compressers and a good friend.
If the engine is out of the car it is a bit easier.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 123 Threads: 23
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Location: Doncaster, gateway to northern civilisation
I might try Ruairidh's suggestion and soak in water for a couple of days - we have plenty to spare here in Yorkshire at the moment. I greased this one with copperease before fitting and it was very easy to remove without any distortion, so will repeat this method once it's dried out!
Colin, the halved section of the tab washer was resting on the gauze when I removed it. I could find no trace of the other half anywhere within the crankcase. It might have slipped off into the drained oil when I removed the gauze. I was using a pukka oil drainage can rather than the usual washing up bowl so it might have been lost within it, and now recycled.The pinchbolt itself showed signs of having twisted against the gudgeon pin's indent and I can only assume I had not got it positioned correctly when I first fitted it. No damage detected anywhere else.
When I rebuilt the engine I fitted the oil baffles after having snipped the sides so they could be opened out and closed as necessary, just as Ian Bancroft describes in the Practical Classics series of engine rebuild articles - no need to remove the block as I could work from underneath the car. I have fitted pistons into the block from above before and it is not a job I would wish to repeat.
Thanks everybody - very encouraging advice. I'm sure others will have wondered about re-using head gaskets and what cash might be saved in the process will eventually channel its way back to our cherished suppliers in other ways.
