'31 Rear Axle Distance Piece

[Chris KC]

It would be rather helpful at this point to know how long the small diameter distance piece should be, which spaces the A/C bearing pair from the large pinion support ball race on a 1931 pinion shaft - 'long nose' axle type.

If anyone has one they could measure (or a spare they don't need), or is planning to strip a similar axle in the coming weeks, an accurate dimension would be much appreciated!

Thanks
Chris

[Steve Jones]

Sorry for not replying to your earlier pm, Chris. Only saw it this morning and have been at my Mother's Care Home all morning. I don't have a record of the dimension of the distance piece I've just used. I may have a second one that I can measure and I'll have a look in the workshop later today. However, you can work it out by measuring the depth of the A/C bearing housing, the o/a width of the A/C bearings and the width of the bearing adjacent to the pinion teeth. An issue to be aware of with measuring a used distance piece is that some are slightly shorter than when they started out due to wear resulting from them spinning because the bearing assembly had become loose.

Steve

[Chris KC]

Sorry for not replying to your earlier pm, Chris. Only saw it this morning and have been at my Mother's Care Home all morning. I don't have a record of the dimension of the distance piece I've just used. I may have a second one that I can measure and I'll have a look in the workshop later today. However, you can work it out by measuring the depth of the A/C bearing housing, the o/a width of the A/C bearings and the width of the bearing adjacent to the pinion teeth. An issue to be aware of with measuring a used distance piece is that some are slightly shorter than when they started out due to wear resulting from them spinning because the bearing assembly had become loose.

Steve

No problem Steve, and I hope your Mum's OK.
If you do have a second one you can check I'd appreciate it. I have precisely the problem you describe, my distance piece has been badly worn by rotation; plus I'm not that convinced it's the 'correct' part in the first place. The sliver that remains unworn suggests it may have been 0.625", but confirmation would be good.
Not sure about the calculation you suggest - I don't have the parts in front of me, but I think varying the distance piece will simply shift the securing nut further up or down the thread. It will still assemble but the pinion axial position could be uncorrectable...?

[Steve Jones]

Just measured two distance pieces, Chris. Both 0.625" as you suspected. Regretfully, no, neither are available as they're both part of CWP sets. Easy to make though. However, one CWP set did have an extra LH thread nut with it. Didn't realise I'd got it. No doubt I put it there so as not to loose it! You're welcome to that if we can arrange it. Send me a pm off thread.

Steve

[Chris KC]

Just measured two distance pieces, Chris. Both 0.625" as you suspected. Regretfully, no, neither are available as they're both part of CWP sets. Easy to make though. However, one CWP set did have an extra LH thread nut with it. Didn't realise I'd got it. No doubt I put it there so as not to loose it! You're welcome to that if we can arrange it. Send me a pm off thread.

Steve

Many thanks Steve. I've also heard from Ian meanwhile, who says 0.625" too. It should be easy enough to get one turned.

Thanks - will pm you.

[Robert Foreman]

When you make the spacer the two working faces where the bearings fit need to be exactly parallel.
   If you make a spacer say. 030" longer and then use pairs of shims to pull the pinion out when setting up you can subtract the difference and then machine the spacer to the exact length.
   This will obviate any need for shims and with a drop of your preferred sealant in the radius of the nose of the torque tube, the job's a good' un.

[Chris KC]

When you make the spacer the two working faces where the bearings fit need to be exactly parallel.
   If you make a spacer say. 030" longer and then use pairs of shims to pull the pinion out when setting up you can subtract the difference and then machine the spacer to the exact length.
   This will obviate any need for shims and with a drop of your preferred sealant in the radius of the nose of the torque tube, the job's a good' un.

That's a good thought Robert, thanks.