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I have a three bearing engine with a pressed steel valve chest cover and I'm about to fit one of the Seven Workshop's silicon o-rings in place of the cork strip. Can anyone tell me if I should fit this dry or with sealant? Any experiences, good or bad?
Many thanks, Peter.
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Location: Oakley, Hants, UK
Car type: 1929 AD Tourer, 1930 Rosengart LR2, Rosengart LR4 Van 1938 APE Tourer (Opal)
Hi Peter
Not used mine yet but have been advised to thoroughly clean the cover and attach using silicon.
I am always interested in any information about Rosengart details or current owners.
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Hi Peter,
Stick it into the cover (with silicone gasket) and then clean the block and install dry, works a treat!
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Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
I really don't like silicon out of a tube anywhere in an engine.
It is probably because I am heavy handed, but I always get globules of it where I don't want globules.
Ruairidh, when you use that coppery silicon on the head gasket, how do you get it thin enough so it doesn't block waterways?
Simon
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I have now fitted two of these - one on my '37 van and the other on my '29 Special (using a modified later-type cover). They work a treat - no leaks from either. I secured them in position using a dab of superglue on the corners, having degreased with meths beforehand.
Rick
In deepest Norfolk
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Thank you all, very helpful.
Peter.
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Location: Scotchland
Morning Simon,
Up until this year I have only ever used copperslip on gaskets.
I am currently running an engine which has Loctite silicone copper gasket on it - reccomended as a precautionary measure to me by Terry Griffin and Steve Jones. I carefully cleaned the waterway holes on the gasket with my little finger and made sure nothing went inside the block or head.
So far, both work eaqually well.
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Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
I used Loctite copper silicon, took the head off again soon after, and found every water passage blocked with silicon blobs.
Used Hermetite - or whatever it is called now - next time, and carefully torqued the head down several times over a day.
No problems so far.
How do you get silicon from a tube thin eough so it doesn't blob the waterways?
Simon
I suppose we are off subject, really.
My (pressed steel) valve chest cover was refitted with a new cork gasket, re-profiled so it sat in the groove properly.
It still leaks a little - the only oil leak I have now. If it persists I will use a sheet silicon gasket between the cork and the block, and that will sort it.
I won't need to use silicon from a tube.
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I used my fingers to spread it about Simon. Did you just leave it as a bead?
We are pulling a tonne GW in 34c today. The car has not overheated in the Alps or even on the day it reached 39c in the Gard - I happy the waterways are not blocked on my engine.
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Location: CALGARY AB CANADA
02-08-2018, 03:24 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-08-2018, 09:40 PM by Steve Bryant.)
It's been my experience that most people apply it like they do toothpaste, which is way too much as only about 10% of the applied silicone does the sealing. The other 90% just squeezes out of the joint.
When I install gaskets i put a blob on my finger and thumb and in a gentle orbital motion sandwich the gasket between the thumb and finger and spread the silicone as THINLY as i can get away with. This way very little oozes out of the joint. Apply the gasket and part and snug it down for a while to allow the silicone to partially set , then tighten again.
Never had an issue with excess finding its way into the interior of the engine or whatever I was putting together.
*Use the correct type of silicone for automotive use, available at your motor factors. If in doubt ask for the product designed for the application.
Stephen