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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
(20-07-2018, 12:47 PM)John Ben Wrote: Hi folks
1927 Austin Chummy
Collect the engine after some work done, starter ring, clutch, bearings etc. I did leave the gearbox in situ when taking the engine out but now I find I cannot line it up properly with the gearbox to bolt them together. I have taken the gearbox out so I can match them up on the bench, which I have yet to complete. I am aware that there is a flat on the spline which should match exactly into the receiving hole in the clutch.
My question is can I reinsert the engine and gearbox back into the car as a unit?
Any other information would be helpful.
John B The other replies all relate to useful experience. In my case I have found it possible to remove and refit the engine without gearbox removal. On one occasion, in a hurry to have the car ready for the 1992 JOGLE I think, I found I had got the clutch wrongly assembled but it was all back together and an attempted trial run showed that the clutch would not disengage. It took me two hours single handed without a hoist to remove the radiator etc and the engine, dismantle and re-assemble the clutch, put it all back together and do a satisfactory test run. We then did the JOGLE inside 24 hours.
Robert Leigh
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(21-07-2018, 11:36 AM)Robert Leigh Wrote: (20-07-2018, 12:47 PM)John Ben Wrote: Hi folks
1927 Austin Chummy
Collect the engine after some work done, starter ring, clutch, bearings etc. I did leave the gearbox in situ when taking the engine out but now I find I cannot line it up properly with the gearbox to bolt them together. I have taken the gearbox out so I can match them up on the bench, which I have yet to complete. I am aware that there is a flat on the spline which should match exactly into the receiving hole in the clutch.
My question is can I reinsert the engine and gearbox back into the car as a unit?
Any other information would be helpful.
John B The other replies all relate to useful experience. In my case I have found it possible to remove and refit the engine without gearbox removal. On one occasion, in a hurry to have the car ready for the 1992 JOGLE I think, I found I had got the clutch wrongly assembled but it was all back together and an attempted trial run showed that the clutch would not disengage. It took me two hours single handed without a hoist to remove the radiator etc and the engine, dismantle and re-assemble the clutch, put it all back together and do a satisfactory test run. We then did the JOGLE inside 24 hours.
Robert Leigh One of my earliest A7 memories is of removing the engine & gearbox on my own from my shared Austin 1931 Saloon (with the top sawn off....). I did it in the Drill Shed behind Victory College at RMA Sandhurst in late 1957.
can't remember why....maybe I thought it was the quickest way to change the canvas flexy coupling. I do remember that had to be done at some stage in our ownership. It took all of a Saturday afternoon & we went up to town that evening. The other half owner was playing some sport or other & wasn't available to lend a hand!
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21-07-2018, 01:27 PM
(This post was last modified: 21-07-2018, 01:30 PM by Steve Jones.)
(20-07-2018, 09:44 PM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: Your car is on a SWB chassis - without modifying the floor plan and/or clutch pedal (by cutting) you will really struggle to fit the engine and gearbox in connected together.
LWB models are different and fitting ‘connected’ is the norm.
Sums it up exactly. I think some people are thinking that the situation is the same for LWB and SWB cars. As Ruairidh sets out, it isn't.
Steve
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Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
It is not quite a simple as that is it, so to save any confusion a SWB steel saloon will be identical to an early LWB saloon, a clearer way off of identifying the problem would be the firewall fuel tank design. If you have a D shaped scuttle tank then seperate the engine and gear box, if you have an oblong or rear fuel tank fit engine and box as a unit, well thats how I deal with them anyway. I know the OP mentioned only Chummy's but we could easily confuse the uninitiated into thinking the same applied to all SWB and LWB cars.
Black Art Enthusiast
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21-07-2018, 09:48 PM
(This post was last modified: 21-07-2018, 09:54 PM by Ruairidh Dunford.)
Steve,
I think that all three speed box cars will require modification or splitting - this includes the first of the LWB cars with oblong tanks from memory.
Also, can you remove box and engine from 65s and Nippies as a unit without modification? I seem to recall not, but could be wrong.
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Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
It is extremely difficult to remove a Nippy/65 engine and gearbox as a unit, but I have done it but you need to get everything in exactly the correct position, far easier to seperate them. A bit like removing a three bearing crank, it seems almost impossible until you position it just so.
Black Art Enthusiast
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Hi Folks
Thanks for all the advice, I was determined that after all the time trying to align the engine with the gearbox in the car it was going back as a unit if at all possible.
After some frustration and with the help of a friend we got the unit back together again only to have part it again (but not fully) to ensure the three arms had located properly (as there was no play on the clutch pedal).
At the first attempt and with the help of the engine hoist it was clear we had to remove the clutch pedal to stand any chance of putting the engine/gearbox back as a unit.
This done and with a lot of fiddling the unit went back in, with a lot more fiddling we reattached the clutch arm.
So it can be done, the use of a chain hoist and another pair of hands was important to the success of the operation as was being able to unscrew the toe part of the clutch pedal. As stated my car is a 1927 Chummy with a magneto. There was no rubber engine mounts, these were aluminum washers with the front offside one ground flat so that the engine is able to slide on it (to prevent the crankcase cracking when going over rough ground I understand).
Thanks again.
John
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(20-07-2018, 05:36 PM)Chris Garner Wrote: John,
Some people say yes to fitting the two complete as one unit; others no. I am the latter.
I know it can be a pain with this " flat spline " but once the male and female are lined up I use a jack under the gearbox, and with assistance, raise or lower it to mate up with the engine. Sometimes it can be very trying, other times the two just slip together quite easily. A combination of patience and bad language helps! ( No mounting rubbers on a '27 engine )
No one seems to have mentioned so I’ll chip in a suggestion that you do not solidly bolt the engine onto the chassis at all four corners — the rear two mountings can be secured using long bolts through valve springs under compression but allowing a tad of movement. When the chassis twists it will move independently of the crank case which is a good thing.
Charles
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