RP Restoration - New Member

[Geoff101]

Its a clamp at the bottom of the steering box.

I've undone everything obvious and it now rotates freely but I can seem to lift it out.

So that's:
The clamp bolt under the control plate.
The big nut on the bottom of the steering box
The clamp bolt through the top of the steering box

The control plate remains securely attached to the tube that goes through the centre of the column, which itself, whilst it rotates, will not lift out.

---

Ah, some heat and slightly more violence seperated the plate from the inner tube. So I probably didn't need to take the big nut off the bottom of the steering box??

[Tony Betts]

Geoff,  don't undo the large nut at the bottom of column. Put it back on and tighten.

There are three tubes.

The outer tube is fixed. With the large brass nut at bottom of column.

The two inner tubes, have brass levers on the bottom of them.

Move the two advance and retard levers at the top, and you should see the brass arms at the bottom end move.

If they move it shows the two inner tubes are not seized in the third fixed outer.

From there it's easy, remove both the bottom brass levers. Cut the horn wire. And undo the pinch bolt at the top, it holds the boss on the outer tube. Then everything will wiggle up through the top of the column.

If things don't rotate, then the tubes are seized inside themselves. ALOT trickier.

Tony.

[Geoff101]

Thanks Tony. Got the wheel off now. Body is now detached and (I think!) free of everything ready to be lifted off.

[squeak]

AS you proceed, photograph, photograph, photograph before you remove bits. Labeled plastic bag including a note inside, items you remove for example body packing pieces.
 BEFORE you remove the body, weld in light diagonal braces internally and in door and roof openings. It can help with later fit of body panels if you drill a 1mm hole through the panel layers before unbolting them, as a guide to replacement position.
Decide where you wish to start and disassemble that only, and leave the rest together until you are ready. Too many directions for your endeavors leads to lost parts, lost enthusiasm and cash exhaustion.  Oh and join a club.   cheers  Russell

[jansens]

AS you proceed, photograph, photograph, photograph before you remove bits. Labeled plastic bag including a note inside, items you remove for example body packing pieces.
 BEFORE you remove the body, weld in light diagonal braces internally and in door and roof openings. It can help with later fit of body panels if you drill a 1mm hole through the panel layers before unbolting them, as a guide to replacement position.
Decide where you wish to start and disassemble that only, and leave the rest together until you are ready. Too many directions for your endeavors leads to lost parts, lost enthusiasm and cash exhaustion.  Oh and join a club.   cheers  Russell

Definitely photograph everything you can. But also don't assume what is there now is correct. The original parts books are very handy for telling you what should be there but don't show how they go together.

Simon

[David.H]

AS you proceed, photograph, photograph, photograph before you remove bits. Labeled plastic bag including a note inside, items you remove for example body packing pieces.
 BEFORE you remove the body, weld in light diagonal braces internally and in door and roof openings. It can help with later fit of body panels if you drill a 1mm hole through the panel layers before unbolting them, as a guide to replacement position.
Decide where you wish to start and disassemble that only, and leave the rest together until you are ready. Too many directions for your endeavors leads to lost parts, lost enthusiasm and cash exhaustion.  Oh and join a club.   cheers  Russell

Definitely photograph everything you can. But also don't assume what is there now is correct. The original parts books are very handy for telling you what should be there but don't show how they go together.

Simon

I concur with Simon. Don't always believe the SPO's (Stupid Previous Owners) knew what they were doing! This car appears pretty unmolested, but I have uncovered some weird "engineering" on mine....Dexion type metal strip with an exhaust flexible strap and a "U" clamp to hold the steering column in place....

[Geoff101]

The DVLA have told me today that they have helpfully lost my V5 application despite cashing the cheque, so that might put the brakes on things unless they confirm they will not want to inspect.
It does have a V5 (not in my name yet) but we couldn't find it when clearing the house.

[Jeff Taylor]

Have you checked the cars registration against the DVLA Online Database? - if it has a V5 then it should be on there - link below. As it obviously hasn't been on the road for some considerable time, the DVLA Database will probably show its TAX status as 'Not taxed for on road use' in a green box as shown below. A car can only be SORN'd if it was taxed on or since 31st January 1998 when SORN was first introduced - if it was untaxed and off the road prior to that date, you've nothing to worry about and when you've completed the restoration you can then tax it, though of course there's no fee to be paid.

https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk


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Have you similarly checked the A7CA Chassis Register to see if it's listed there either by Registration Number or Chassis Number? If it's not listed, then you can add it yourself by completing the online Notification Form - links below.

http://a7ca.org/chassis-register/

http://a7ca.org/chassis-register/notification-form/

I strongly suggest you purchase a copy of the Doug Woodrow workshop manual 'The Austin Seven Manual' known by many as the Red Book as it has a red cover. It's similar in size to an OLD telephone directory at 1.1/4" thick! - it's available new direct from the publishers Mercury Vintage Services, Rosedale Farm, Station Road, Emneth, Wisbech, PE14 8DL - Tel: 01945 430058 - Email: susan.woodrow@gmail.com 

or you can buy it new from A7 Components http://www.a7c.co.uk/spares.php#bookshop - look under 'Books' - ref. no. BT802 - it costs £56.00p and is worth every penny.

Avoid buying a copy via eBay, the prices asked are usually much higher than the new published price - Amazon for example are asking from £78 !!!

[Geoff101]

Thanks Jeff. It's all on record with the DVLA, just not in my name yet.
It's not on the A7 register yet as it's been in our family for many decades.

I'll check out the manual.

[Geoff101]

I've started to strip the engine today whilst I'm waiting to remove the body. No.3 piston is stuck in the bore so I had to remove the big end cap and remove the piston and conrod with the block thus sacrificing the little (oil baffle?) plate. Hopefully you can buy new ones! What's the best way to free it off. It's been sat with diesel in the top of the bore for a couple of weeks and that hasn't helped. Soak it from the bottom for a bit??
Once No.3 was disconnected, the rest of the engine turns pretty freely.

Having got the block off, I have a few questions:

1) I seem to have alloy pistons. Is that normal?





Also, I appear to have a hollow crank. Now I've read that the standard saloon engine isn't pressure fed so is the oilway present on all of them and just not used, or is this non-standard?

Thanks