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Cambridge Special - Wing Brackets
#1
Hi,

I'm looking for someone to help me by making a couple of new front wing mounting brackets for my Special.

These are the brackets that mount the wings and lamps to the body/radiator cowl.

Any recommendations?

Thanks.
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#2
I built up this special for Tony Betts a few years back - the body was made by Rod Yates, I modified the the front (and rear) wing/headlamp brackets so that the wiring could be hidden inside them, I think it finished up a very neat solution and I would recommend his work to you.

   

   
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#3
Found the close up pictures!


.jpg   Special Front light 2.jpg (Size: 147.71 KB / Downloads: 167)


.jpg   Special front light bracket.jpg (Size: 196.41 KB / Downloads: 167)


.jpg   Special rear lights.jpg (Size: 134.23 KB / Downloads: 167)
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#4
(04-09-2017, 08:15 AM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: Found the close up pictures!

I can't recommend anyone - I try to do everything myself - but the curved and tapering front forks of a bicycle make elegant wing stays, the diagonal ones on R's impressive photos. In fact a bicycle frame is a good source of tubes for these types of jobs.

Dave
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#5
(04-09-2017, 08:08 AM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: I built up this special for Tony Betts a few years back - the body was made by Rod Yates, I modified the the front (and rear) wing/headlamp brackets so that the wiring could be hidden inside them, I think it finished up a very neat solution and I would recommend his work to you.

I made front and rear wing brackets for my Cambridge pattern wings some years ago, very similar to those of Rod Yates shown in Ruairidh's photos, thin wall tube, Ulster style body plates and flattened tube ends where they go under the wings. After several thousand miles I had a front wing stay break, followed in a few hundred miles by a back one and another front, all at the point the tube is flattened. I concluded that due to vibration and aerodynamic flutter, the tube that had been work hardened, then fatigued before shearing across the tube.
I understand from the books and articles I have read and of which I have since taken notice, that coach builders would, when fitting cycle style wings, always fit three stays per wing, two being sure to break.
I did not want to introduce a third stay and so cut the tubes and inserted a turned plug, which was plug welded and a flat bar inserted into a slot and welded in to support the wing, this seems to be a stronger solution and although there is still movement, so far it has not broken again! If a side light cable is to be introduced, I drill a hole through the plug.
I think any fabricator would be able to make these for you locally, the body plates are available from the usual sources and thin wall tube (note not electrical conduit) would be suitable. The longest part of the job is cutting and shaping the ends of the tube, all of which can be done with hand or minimal power tools. Prep all the materials and take the parts for welding if this is not your forte, I made wooden jigs to hold the parts in their respective positions for the front wing and headlamp stays.
Incidentally I have seen the car to which the photos refer, it is extremely handsome, I am envious of the skills exhibited by body builder and fitter-up.
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#6
My Cambridge has the same set up, though much more badly made.

And mine go through the body (not a 4 piece bonnet, therefore), not through the shell.

In 80,000 miles they have given no trouble.    Non-triangulated front mounts will break, as my previous designs did.

Because my radshell is so fragile I have an upper horizontal cross member connecting the wing stays, triangulated with an inverted V from the middle down to the cow horns.

In brazed half inch thin wall stainless tube that I found on a pile somewhere.

Little rectangles of rubber inside and out where the half inch by inch "feet" on the tube ends  meet the body, M4 brass screws.

The rears are so crude I won't describe them!

Simon
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