removing pistons

[rubyman]

I am in the process of removing the pistons on my 750cc engine ( I have been a mechanic for 65 plus years and stripped & rebuilt loads of engines car, lorry & plant but never seen a engine like the 750cc ) its my first experience of this engine, at the bottom of the piston liner there is a metal piece that only lets the conrod push through in a certain position what is this metal for, what does it do, its like a extension of the liner.

thanks rubyman

[bob46320]

Do you mean the oil splash guards - coffee tin lid with a slot in it ?

[dickie65]

You will need to separate the block from the crankcase, remove piston / rod and oil baffle from the block base,
remove little end pinch bolts drive out gudgeon pins, oil baffles can be removed over the little end.
The rods will not pass up the bore.
You might find the oil baffles have been butchered in the past either by cutting them or forcing then open enough for the big end to pass through.

Either undo the block base then lift block off leaving rods / pistons on crankshaft, 
Or undo big ends and lift the block off complete with pistons and rods.

[rubyman]

You will need to separate the block from the crankcase, remove piston / rod and oil baffle from the block base,
remove little end pinch bolts drive out gudgeon pins, oil baffles can be removed over the little end.
The rods will not pass up the bore.
You might find the oil baffles have been butchered in the past either by cutting them or forcing then open enough for the big end to pass through.

Either undo the block base then lift block off leaving rods / pistons on crankshaft, 
Or undo big ends and lift the block off complete with pistons and rods.

---

You will need to separate the block from the crankcase, remove piston / rod and oil baffle from the block base,
remove little end pinch bolts drive out gudgeon pins, oil baffles can be removed over the little end.
The rods will not pass up the bore.
You might find the oil baffles have been butchered in the past either by cutting them or forcing then open enough for the big end to pass through.

Either undo the block base then lift block off leaving rods / pistons on crankshaft, 
Or undo big ends and lift the block off complete with pistons and rods.

---

Thanks for the reply Dickie 65, certainly a different engine than I have ever worked on, but I guess its because I am working on a 80 year old car, and at nearly 81 you never stop learning    is there anything else I should know that's special or different about reconditioning the ruby engine.
Thanks again

[Stuart Giles]

  is there anything else I should know that's special or different about reconditioning the ruby engine.
Thanks again

There's a lot of useful information on this website that should be worth a read.
http://www.da7c.co.uk/technical_torque_a...E_PAGE.htm

[Jeff Taylor]

Rubyman,

I suggest you purchase a copy of the Doug Woodrow workshop manual 'The Austin Seven Manual' known by many as the Red Book as it has a red cover. It's similar in size to an OLD telephone directory at 1.1/4" thick! - it's available new direct from the publishers Mercury Vintage Services, Rosedale Farm, Station Road, Emneth, Wisbech, PE14 8DL - Tel: 01945 430058 - Email: susan.woodrow@gmail.com

or you can buy it new from A7 Components http://www.a7c.co.uk/spares.php#bookshop - look under 'Books' - ref. no. BT802 - it costs £56.00p and is worth every penny.

Avoid buying a copy via eBay, the prices asked are usually much higher than the new published price - Amazon for example are asking from £78 !!!

[Bob Culver]

If a stranger to Sevens the main pointer is to not break the front bearing crankcase lip as myriads of "mechanics" have!
And when it comes to aseembly note  there is no filter to keep cork and silicon out of the oilways.
As for what else is different, that is the basis of most of this extensive Forum! Skew gear driven dynamo currently topical!