'Ulster' Spare Wheel Cover Edge Seal?

[Chris KC]

Does anyone know if some kind of 'seal' existed between spare wheel cover and body on the original road-going 'Ulster'? In the past I glued a bit of closed-cell foam strip around mine, partly to stop it sliding off, partly to impede water ingress, and partly to save the paintwork. I'm not aware that such a 'seal' existed on original cars though, does anyone know better? My sealing strip is up for replacement so I'm wondering what is 'correct', or indeed whether someone has a better way.

[Erich]

Hi Chris, I'm interested in this as well. Given the the original cars had both rather strip on the bonnet, as well as a carpeted interior, I can't believe they would have had something around the boot access.

Erich in Seattle

[Dave Wortley]

It doesn't need a seal because the wired edge on the body around the cover sticks up 10mm and the cover itself has the same but faces downwards. Never had any leaks into spare wheel well for last 25 years.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

It doesn't need a seal because the wired edge on the body around the cover sticks up 10mm and the cover itself has the same but faces downwards. Never had any leaks into spare wheel well for last 25 years.

What he said!

[Chris KC]

It doesn't need a seal because the wired edge on the body around the cover sticks up 10mm and the cover itself has the same but faces downwards. Never had any leaks into spare wheel well for last 25 years.

I can only guess yours is a better fit than mine Dave! Anyway thanks for the info. I will look for another bit of foam sealing strip...

[Robert Foreman]

Hello Chris, 
   on my car used a piece of rubber tube. I split it by pushing a piece of flex through it liberally coated in washing up liquid and then split it with a Stanley knife blade clamped to the bench. You can then put it completely around the hatch and it will then stop the cover fretting

[Chris KC]

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Hello Chris, 
   on my car used a piece of rubber tube. I split it by pushing a piece of flex through it liberally coated in washing up liquid and then split it with a Stanley knife blade clamped to the bench. You can then put it completely around the hatch and it will then stop the cover fretting

Thanks Robert, a similar thought had crossed my mind, might give that a go.

[Erich]

Robert, that is helpful and that thought had crossed my mind. On my Rep, the rounded lip(aluminum with steel insert) has worn and my need is less based on sealing than keeping the lid safe and avoiding chaffing.

Erich in Seattle

[Steve Jones]

It doesn't need a seal because the rolled edge on the body around the cover sticks up 10mm and the cover itself has the same but faces downwards. Never had any leaks into spare wheel well for last 25 years.

That's how mine is as well. Doesn't leak. Two internal aluminium clips stop it moving backwards.

Steve

[Bill Sheehan]

It doesn't need a seal because the rolled edge on the body around the cover sticks up 10mm and the cover itself has the same but faces downwards. Never had any leaks into spare wheel well for last 25 years.

That's how mine is as well. Doesn't leak. Two internal aluminium clips stop it moving backwards.

Steve

Noticed many different ideas on sealing, but no-one seems to have answered the original question.  The answer is there was no sealing, it relied (as said above), entirely
on the good fit between cover and lipped skin.  Wear on the paint was very rare - but I can't speak for replicas which may well be not made as well as the originals.   Good Luck,   Cheers,   Bill in Oz