Sump Studs v Bolts

[Hugh Barnes]

Yes - to be clear, the original pressed tin sump would not need removing to enable the engine to come out. The deep ali type that you can find nowadays that has a very clear 'square' front, do need removal. The deep ali type with the 'sloping' front might not need removal (mine, on the Cabriolet and the Box do not require it, for instance) Though Charles' problem suggests it might be an issue for some cars. But one that can be overcome...

[Steve Jones]

None of my engines have anything other than the standard size/shape sump. However, all but one are cast aluminium versions rather than the original pressed steel. With the standard size/shape sump, there's no need to remove it to take the engine out be it pressed steel or cast aluminium and whether it's secured with bolts or studs/nuts is irrelevant. If the sump is larger than standard then, of course, it may need removal depending on its size, shape and fitment.


   

Steve

[Rick F]

Thanks for all the useful advice.

Steve - did you find it necessary to adjust the length of the studs?

[Charles P]

Yes - to be clear, the original pressed tin  sump would not need removing to enable the engine to come out. The deep ali type that you can find nowadays that has a very clear 'square' front, do need removal. The deep ali type with the 'sloping' front might not need removal (mine, on the Cabriolet and the Box do not require it, for instance) Though Charles' problem suggests it might be an issue for some cars. But one that can be overcome...

Hugh

For the avoidance of doubt my engine comes out OK with the "semi-deep" (sloping front) sump attached.

The challenge I had at Wiscombe was removing the sump with the engine in-situ. 
The idiot mechanic had allowed a magneto HT cable nut roll down the scuttle and straight into the oil filler, and thus the sump. On a mag engine this bypasses the wire mesh and is therefore an immediate hazard.
The idiot mechanic had a strong word with himself about that one.

[Alan]

Had the highly accomplished mechanic who had a momentary lapse had the mesh filter in place….

[Charles P]

Had the highly accomplished mechanic who had a momentary lapse had the mesh filter in place….

Poor fool had made an extended filler neck for the mag engine, with no cylindrical filter

   

[Steve Jones]

Thanks for all the useful advice.

Steve - did you find it necessary to adjust the length of the studs?

No, fitted just as they came.

   

Steve

[stuartu]

Had the highly accomplished mechanic who had a momentary lapse had the mesh filter in place….

Poor fool had made an extended filler neck for the mag engine, with no cylindrical filter

My sympathies. Having had a near miss with a similar arrangement myself, I have taken to inserting a perforated zinc “baffle” in the filler orifice. This rather slows the process of adding oil to the engine so, of course, I hook the filter out thus negating some of its advantages. Still, fitting it made me feel better. I suppose one could just replace the filler cap……

Regards,

Stuart

[Rick F]

Thanks for all the useful advice.

Steve - did you find it necessary to adjust the length of the studs?

No, fitted just as they came.



Steve

 
Steve - who supplied your studs? I was planning on cutting mine out of threaded rod.

[Steve Jones]

I bought a bag full many years ago from YAW Engineering in Bentley, Doncaster. Long gone and very much missed. However, a Google search for 1/4 BSW x 1" studs gives various suppliers. Making them from threaded rod negates one of the advantages of studs as oil can still seep down the thread. With proper studs, the un-threaded part forms a barrier that stops that once tightened in place.

Steve