uncoupled rear brake mods

[`Gordonhbm]

I believe that someone introduced compensation for the rear brakes by using a single cable with a swivel plate similar to the coupled front brake and ran the cale over two pulleys to bring the cables into alignment with the rear brake levers.  Can anyone find the  post that showed a photo of this set  ups please?

[Charles P]

This is the only picture I could find. I’ve now converted to hydraulics, which work well.

Behind this is a simple arrangement with two pulleys at the end of the rear cross member to give a straight line pull to each side of the rear axle. What you can see are the two rear brake cables that attach to the rear of the hexagonal adjusters that I installed (simple RH/LH thread set up).

   

[`Gordonhbm]

Thanks for the picture. Very helpful. Did you find this system to work well in compensating the rear brakes? I assume you went to hydraulics to get a fully compensated coupled system?

[Charles P]

It made both rear wheels work simultaneously.
I went to hydraulics for simply better brakes.
That statement will usually open an argument, which is not my intention, but my car had got a bit too quick for its stopping ability. Perhaps better drivers or mechanics find other resolutions to that problem.
And the late (and much missed) Bryan Norfolk sold me a whole hydraulic kit at a very soothing price.

[`Gordonhbm]

Thanks for the info. Does anyone do the same hydraulic kit today?

[Charles P]

The kit wasn't new, and hydraulics are a big faff to do well needing a lots of modifications.
I don't know of anyone selling a kit

[Ivor Hawkins]

In my experience, for a road car, the standard system, we’ll set up is perfectly satisfactory. I’ve converted one car from hydraulics back to standard, but it was a standard Ruby.

I took the Bowdenex conversion off my current box saloon and I think the brakes are better!

Just my experience, for what it’s worth.

[Robert Leigh]

I have twice removed Bowdenex cables, finding well set up standard brakes to be better. Bowdenex possibly hide some of the problems of poor set up.

[Charles P]

In my experience, for a road car, the standard system, we’ll set up is perfectly satisfactory. I’ve converted one car from hydraulics back to standard, but it was a standard Ruby.

I took the Bowdenex conversion off my current box saloon and I think the brakes are better!

Just my experience, for what it’s worth.

I too found Bowdenex on the front no advantage.

[`Gordonhbm]

Thanks everyone for their input.
I have concluded from all the input to:
1.Leave brakes uncoupled
2.Remove wear from all brake cams and bushes
3.Provided side to side compensation on the rear by the system used by CharlesP and incorporate Plummer blocks to support cross tube
4.Fit new cast iron drums with soft linings.
Question 1: does the front system provide effective compensation or does this need improving?
Question 2: How does one ensure that the spherical on the front brake cam levers are in-line with the kingpin axis so the levers are not operated as steering lock is wound on?