Time for another update. We are still going back through the past to catch up. While on the forum I noticed in another current thread, a discussion about original cars and bodies compared to originals. I thought I would quickly comment on this using my car as an example, as its a reproduction. There are many ways to differentiate original cars from reproductions and reproductions from other reproductions. However, from my observations the best way is using the floor pan. Many reproductions omit some of the finer details especially in swages/pressings. This is perfectly normal as it takes a bit more effort and time to get some of these details right and most of the time they are well hidden. But for academic purposes I will explain.
The attached photo shows my cars floor pan under construction in 2020 and I have shown four details often missed in reproductions. There are, of course, many more.
A. The tunnel has a depression in line with the battery box, this is quite a particular shape and fairly obvious.
B. The angled portion of the tunnel that extends over the diff has a change in shape and is a different width at the end.
C. The top and sides on an original Ulster firewall are all one piece.
D. The fire wall side swage is a tool pressing not a swage that can be replicated with a bead roller. of course these all can be replicated by hand. It just takes time, money, and attention to detail, hence why they are not always there in all reproductions.
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From the out side its a bit harder to tell the difference, but again there are tell tail (excuse the pun) signs. From my research original cars had a larger radius curve where the sides of the car joined the seat back and the bottom edge of the car always had a distinct form. A bit like ones handwriting each manufacture of bodies has their own style and like hand-writing its very hard to disguise your own style. Original ulster's have their own signature, compound curvature bodies have theirs.... and so too will mine. One major deviation from original I have made is making the body and tail in one piece. This was originally done in two, the tail formed and then offered up and welded in. This is probably why the tails on original ulster's differed so much. Some being droopy some kinked. They probably did this for ease of manufacturing, its easier to planish. I had to stretch my arm all the way from the boot aperture to the tail to planish the bumps. Fine for custom jobs but not ideal for mass production. I hope some of you find this interesting... I could go on and on but probably should get back to the updates..
Back to the devil in the details, here is some pictures of my rear number plate. I built this in 2020 but only attached it this year. I had an original front plate so copied it and made some simple tools to make it by hand.
Number plate 1.png (Size: 904.08 KB / Downloads: 212)
numberplate 2.png (Size: 862.16 KB / Downloads: 212)
Here is part of the end tool used to form the ends
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here is the tool for forming the straight sections
nuberplate 5.png (Size: 781.72 KB / Downloads: 212)
This shows the tool and the plate edge formed. This was all done by throwing the ege to the desired angle and then whacking it over the tool to get the desired round profile edge.
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And here's the end result with tail light bracket and mounting brackets made curtesy of Chris Goulds wonderful book.
Anyway that's the picture limit for this post. Hope you all find it interesting. I will be back soon.
