Well the bodgers delight strikes again !.
Now fixed the rear axle. Crown wheel missing two teeth.
Took some time to get the meshing about right but still a bit more adjustment
to do before I am fully happy.
While the axle was out, I also replaced the 'saggy' rear springs and re-furbished the
shock absorbers. Now the car sits more like it should. Also a good clean up so
looks a lot better (to me) underneath.
The indicator and fuel guage suddenly stopped working. Eventually traced to
the fuel sender earth wire (inside the rheostat cover) shorted to the power wire.
Suprised it did not kill the fuel guage, or maybe I was lucky !.
Needed a bit of thought to fix but now back working and not blowing fuses.
Today noticed a few drops of water in the oil drip tray. Initially thought it was me overfilling
the radiator, but unfortunately not.
Some investigation and found the rear cylinder block core plug was damp. So looks like
I might (maybe) have to take the engine out to replace it, but.
Someone had cut and bent the bulkhead immediately behind the plug for a previous repair,
and of course I have now welded the 'hatch' back up.
So as there have been so many other bodges on the car (what gaskets (and loads more)) I am thinking rather than
take the engine out, it might be easier to make a larger 'hatch' with a proper cover so i can get better
access to the core plug.
Feeling the core plug, it looks like it has been hit several times to get it to seal rather than the one
good sharp blow which might explain why it has leaking. Also no sign of sealer, but this might have washed off.
Off to order some new core plugs and find a suitable cover for my 'bodge'. This will be my first bodge as
I have tried to restore the car to as near original as possible.
It's much easier to take the engine out, can be done in a couple of hours (takes me less than an hour to get my Chummy engine out) and gives you a chance to clean and do any minor repairs that are needed in the engine bay.
Also gives proper access to the core plug rather than fiddling about under the dash with very limited space.
My advice is to take the engine and gearbox out together - it's far easier than trying to split them in the car. Here's a how to do it list:
Austin Seven RP Engine/Gearbox removal
• Disconnect battery
• Protect front wings/headlamps with old towels/curtains
• Remove bonnet
• Remove bonnet stay complete with horn
• Remove front number plate
• Remove starting handle
• Drain radiator
• Loosen top and bottom hoses at head & water branch
• Remove Radiator shell and radiator complete with top/bottom hoses
• Remove gear lever. Stuff gearbox top cover with paper towel.
• Remove floor mat & propshaft tunnel cover
• Remove bolts securing propshaft to output flange
• Remove clutch lever top (or complete lever from release shaft if you haven’t got a modified floor pan )
• Remove flywheel cover plate
• Disconnect speedo cable from gearbox
• Disconnect fuel pipe from fuel pump.
• Disconnect choke cable and throttle linkage
• Disconnect oil pipe to dashboard gauge from back of crankcase
• Disconnect starter cable from starter motor
• Disconnect starter pull cable from solenoid
• Disconnect secondary earth cable from cylinder head (if you’ve got one)
• Disconnect earth strap from timing case
• Disconnect dynamo cables from dynamo
• Remove adv/retard lever from distributor
• Remove HT lead from coil.
• Disconnect LT lead from distributor
• Remove four bolts holding exhaust downpipe to manifold
• Remove n°3 spark plug & replace with lifting hook
• Remove engine mounting bolts
• Lift unit clear with hoist tilting unit backwards to clear nose piece and throttle linkage
• Push car backwards out of the way and place unit on stand/workmate
• Set handbrake on car once it’s out of the way.
• Replace flywheel cover to prevent something falling in.
• Have a cup of tea for a job well done.
I have replaced a rear core plug on an RP without cutting the bulkhead or removing the engine. A rusted core plug can usually be removed fairly easily with a suitably bent poking tool, and then the seating needs cleaning as best you can (your home made poking tool may be suitable). Smear a bit of sealant onto the recess and fit the new core plug, then push a small hammer head or other suitable lump of metal between the centre of the plug and the bulkhead so that the bulkhead bulges slightly. The use a hammer carefully to strike the centre of the bulge inside the car. This will seat the core plug in the usual way.
Well, I have ignored everyones advice. One reason being I have no engine lift available
and Grandson on holiday so no chance of help with lifting for the couple of weeks.
.
So 10 minutes measuring, 1 minute doing a test drill, and another 5 with a hole cutter
and you can see the plug easily. Also got a suitable blanking plug (plate ?) which is just a
push fit. Will put sealer round it to make sure it is secure later.
No seats in presently so more elbow room to do the job.
Suprised to see the plug was dry, but having drained the radiator a couple of hours ago
it might just have dried out by itself.
Will put water in and see if any leaks.
Running on 'plan B' now as was hoping to go for a drive this weekend (to see what else fails !)
so if any leaks I am going to cover the plug with JB marine epoxy as a temporary measure
until the new core plugs arrive.
I had two phone calls with Longstone regarding tyre pressures, the first recommended 30 psi or maybe more whilst the second said the car will be all over the road at that pressure try 20 ps1. i wish they could sing from the same song sheet.
07-09-2024, 12:36 PM (This post was last modified: 07-09-2024, 12:42 PM by David Stepney.)
30 psi is far too much for a car weighing just a tad over half a ton, as I found out having fitted the spare (kept at 30 psi as I always forget to check it!) to the front after a puncture. The little car was all over the road like a frightened rabbit. I run mine at 23 front and 25 rear (on Avon Triple Duties) after a bit of 'trial and error' and that seems to be fine. Well neither Leon (who drives everything with some verve) and I haven't crashed it yet!
Although I managed to reverse into one of the trotting carts the other day, fortunately without damage and Leon now teases me that I drive by Braille.
(02-05-2024, 11:38 PM)Graham Barker Wrote: Car looks very smart. Interesting coastal residences.
What a nice looking car —. I like the pale grey with red upholstery.
We lived in Burghead, Moray for ten years ( 1970 to 1980) and your photo takes me back to those days with the great northern sky and stone built houses, at least the older ones, that stand up to a buffeting when a proper gale is blowing.
Slowly getting there with the car. Seems for every successful job done I
find another to do !.
Core plugs arrived in the post yesterday so another job to do next week.
Also looking at replacing the front spring and a check
around the kingpins etc but will leave that until winter.
It can be windy here. Actually slept through the 140MPH breeze in 1989.
Did wonder what the sheds and bits of barns were doing in the road when I
went to work next morning !.
You probably also remember the fog (har). Last three days viz was less than
50 metre but now wind has picked up so can see about a mile.
