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Head stud removal
#21
I use the same method as Ruairidh and it's worked well for the last 40 years. Use the stud holes with good threads to fix the head down firmly.

Generally for removal, I heat the stud and then work it clockwise and anti-clockwise with vise-grips until it starts to move, then increase the amount of turn until you can get 1 full turn anti-clock. The stud then usually gives up and unscrews. I can usually get 12 or 13 out without breakage that way, sometimes a full set.
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#22
Some years ago I was fortunate to snap up a set of Sykes Pickavant stud extractors in imperial sizing, since when I have used no other.

There is an example here, though I am not suggesting its purchase, not at that price, anyway. However, they are very good as they exert pressure on the whole length of the stud and do so without leaving any witness marks. Turn them in the other direction and they will also screw the stud back in..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285852867453?...ondition=4
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#23
The SP extractor is a superb tool.
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#24
Managed to remove two more studs today but the central remaining stud still shows no intention of moving. Have applied more heat and have left it soak in PG a day or two longer. If I manage to remove this last one I will be pleased to have only lost two, but am not counting chickens……
In hind sight I think with the first 7 coming out without any issue, I had become blasé and did not take the care needed and so a lesson learned.
Have been really pleased with the Blue Dot extractor for about 9 squid it is money well spent.
Cheers
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#25
………3 studs to drill out!!
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#26
Having now removed all the valves, tappets and core plugs, have cleaned to top head to check for any cracks, unfortunately the block is cracked between the central stud and the waterway immediately behind it. The crack then continues on the other side of the waterway and travels up between valves 4&5 where it reaches beyond the mid point of the valves. The crack was not visible until the block face was cleaned and wire brushed, once clean it clearly visible to the naked eye without any dye pen. I’m gussying this is pretty terminal, but if it wasn’t I’m not sure I would ever use it.
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#27
Might the block be the perfect subject for laser welding?
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