Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
Reputation:
8
Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Three generations of the Mason family attended Norwood Park (Nottinghamshire) Classic Car Show. Only two pre war Austin’s there my Ruby and a 10/4.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,953 Threads: 558
Reputation:
20
Location: Peak District, Derbyshire
Car type: 1929 Chummy, 1930 Chummy, 1930 Ulster Replica, 1934 Ruby
13-08-2024, 08:12 PM
(This post was last modified: 13-08-2024, 10:43 PM by Tony Griffiths.)
Spent an afternoon with three distributors, three cars and combinations of HT lead and cap sets trying to get one of the cars to work on any of them (what that, factorial 6?). Of course, they all worked on two cars - but not the rogue one. Finally, by application of black magic, a DK4 that I'd just assembled from bits and pieces finally gave in and decided to play ball. Don't you just love this load of trouble at a low cost. Many thanks to everybody on the forum who chipped in with advice and help.
Joined: Jan 2024 Posts: 43 Threads: 10
Reputation:
1
Location: Fraserbugh, NE Scotland
Car type: 1933 Austin Chummy
Now got the new rear springs fitted. The car does not sag as it used to. Also re-built rear axle in. Maybe still not quite right but no clunking noises now.
Spent some time today adjusting the steering box (lots of free play). Even after reading the instructions it went from no play but tight, to lots of free play.
Eventually found the sweet spot and about an inch movement on the wheel just moves the front wheels.
Also stripped down the front shock absorbers, cleaned, and re-assembled 'properly' (not as they were) and adjusted maybe a little too strong but will
'tweek' again later.
Went for a drive and was still like a narrow boat, wandering both directions over bumps and needing constant adjusting of the steering wheel. Had a look at
the tracking and over 2 inch toe in !. More work and now have the wheels slightly toe in (about 1/4 inch) and the car goes in a much better
straight line with much less steering wheel movement. Maybe have another go at getting it closer to neutral but will do a few more runs first.
Martin, GM6VXB
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,643 Threads: 23
Reputation:
15
Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
Always a good idea to check the castor angle, a quick visual check to make sure the axle/ kingpin is angled backwards, it makes a huge difference to the handling. There is plenty of guidance on setting it up and it’s an easy job…it transformed my Chummy, which tried desperately to jump over the hedge as soon as I hit a bump in the road.
Joined: Jan 2024 Posts: 43 Threads: 10
Reputation:
1
Location: Fraserbugh, NE Scotland
Car type: 1933 Austin Chummy
Ivor,
Castor and Camber are both pretty close to correct (Castor 4.5Deg, Camber 2.5 Deg).
Figures using a digital inclinometer and various straight edges.
Will do a full check again after I have covered a few miles.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 628 Threads: 19
Reputation:
11
Location: Sheffield South Yorks
Car type: 1932 RN saloon
Another thing to check is the location and tightness of the front spring u bolts. I tightened the ones on my box saloon and now the steering is much improved. I had to remove the radiator for access. You don’t want worn spring to axle links and bushes either.
Joined: Mar 2018 Posts: 694 Threads: 33
Reputation:
3
Location: Lot region FRANCE
When really hot, we used to unhinge the bonnet and put it on the back seat , 40c plus !!