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Location: CALGARY AB CANADA
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,400 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Steve, is this intended to be a permanent fixture? If so I would bond it with epoxy resin rather than drilling the wood. If you do it right the joint will be stronger than anything else on the car.
Just my 2d worth.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 422 Threads: 89
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Location: CALGARY AB CANADA
Reckless, yes this meant to be permanent. The problem with epoxy is that it tends to part company after some years, so I would use another type of adhesive. I intend to glue as well as screw the plate into place.
Stephen
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Location: Beautiful Northumberland
Car type: 1933 RP Saloon (aka Mildred)
I have used Adiseal for non car relate wood gluing and it appears good, although it was only recently so I cannot comment on longevity. It's claims are strong:
https://adiseal.com/wood-to-metal/.
I would also use screws, 2 per arm of the metal piece to avoid twisting, with appropriate pilot holes to help prevent splitting and on the longer sections of grain to prevent breaking off.
Someone like Peter Naulis if here would undoubtedly be best qualified to answer your question
Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,644 Threads: 23
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Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
The ash frame needs to move (albeit only a little) in my view, or cracks will develop, so I would go for three brass screws drilled centrally.
I await the responses of those more knowledgable than me!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
I like the use of screws as well as a glue. I would use stainless steel rather than brass, because they are stronger. Boat chandlers are normally the best place for such.
Joined: Sep 2020 Posts: 24 Threads: 3
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Location: Shropshire
Car type: Pram Hood
I have reinforced various sections of my Morgan's wooden frame with steel plates, they are all held on with brass screws, just in case I ever need to take it to bits. I have used 2 screws into each bit of timber, it stiffened up the ageing frame no end.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,018 Threads: 53
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Location: The delightful town of Knaresborough, North Yorkshire
Should it be as few screws as possible? I suggest that more screws, but very small diameter screws, might be better. I'm thinking of 4 screws per 'leg', so 12 screws in total. Definitely drill pilot holes, and drill right through, use long screws and cut the excess length off with a grinder. Stainless steel screws are often much stronger than ordinary steel.
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Personally I'd use brass or stainless screws and West System epoxy. It's how I've done the running boards on my Fiat and whilst I can't vouch for longevity as yet, I followed the advice of others who have had the benefit of testing the approach over time.
But whichever way you go, it's great to watch your progress