Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 427 Threads: 35
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Location: Garden of England
Car type: ARQ Ruby July 1936
I am sure that this subject must have been aired on this forum a number of times, but my “searching” has failed to find any.
I am currently at the start of building a spare 2 bearing engine for Ruby, I have a number of spare items like crankcase, blocks, heads, a new crankshaft and timing gears and a lot more, so it seems silly not to….!!!
I have what appears to be a sound block which is complete with everything, just as it had been removed from its original car many years ago, just covered in oil.
All the studs appear to be pitted and the threads all look to be in a poor state. And so I want to remove all the studs and replace them along with the manifold studs and water jacket studs.
When my original engine for Ruby was rebuilt, the work was carried out by my my neighbour and he replaced all the studs, but I never knew how he managed to remove them.
Currently I have cleaned most of the oil off the block and valve gear and have regularly been dosing the studs with penetrating oil.
Looking on line there are a number of videos showing various methods including welding large outside diameter washers to the studs and then a large nut onto the studs and washer close to the block face, then with a larger spanner turning the studs out.
Has anyone tried this method or is there a better way??
Cheers
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,400 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
03-08-2024, 04:15 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-08-2024, 04:17 PM by Reckless Rat.)
Last time I replaced mine I just used a stilson wrench. It renders them useless but it did the trick. Put a large washer over the stud so I didn't scratch the block top face with the tool.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 985 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
Studs can often be removed by applying as much torque as you dare anti-clockwise. This can be done with a stud extractor, stilson or vice grip wrench. Often they just relent and come undone. If they won't then shocking them by hitting them on the end, as though they were a nail being driven in, at the same time as applying torque, often gets them moving.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,393 Threads: 106
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
No.1 thing is drench them all in Plus Gas, and leave at least 24 hours.
Locking two plain nuts together will give you something to undo with a spanner, and will at least get out the easier ones.
I'm always a little anxious applying too much heat locally to a casting, but if applied with care heat can get things moving.
Mole grips or similar may help, if locked on tight.
I have in my tool kit a couple of eccentric jobbies which use a 'self-servo' effect to tighten onto the stud as you apply the spanner. They exert more of a grip than moles do.
Once you get into the heavier applications of torque, be prepared for several sheared studs, which you will probably do best to drill out, but this needs doing with considerable care otherwise they'll go off centre. Beware of hardened steel stud extractors which can snap off and make matters worse.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Soak overnight with a good freeing oil. Drop a repair washer over the stud and use a stud extractor low down on the stud against the washer. Works for me and lessens the risk of breaking the stud.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,644 Threads: 23
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Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
I use the shock treatment by giving them a good tap on the end of the stud and using a reversible stud extractor, turning the stud clockwise and anti clockwise after a through dousing in penetrating oil…NOT WD 40, that’s useful for other things!
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Location: Melton Mowbray.
Blue Spot Impact Stud Extractor tool - I swear by it!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,393 Threads: 106
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
n.b. When you do inevitably break a few and have to drill them out, it's well worth considering a simple jig to make sure you get the drill in the right place - there are suggested tools in the the big red Woodrow manual.
Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 1,504 Threads: 54
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My method for stud removal is to dump the block in Deox C for a week with all machined surfaces but not the top face greased, then heat each stud to red heat keeping the blow lamp away from the block. when the studs have cooled remove with a pair of Stillsons.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
When you get to having to drill out the broken bit, dropping the head back on to use as a drill guide can be useful. Start with a bit which is close to the stud hole size, using it only to create a centre in the end of the broken stud for the subsequent use of smaller bits until you get out to the size of the inside of the thread. The remains can usually be picked out with a small bent scriber before cleaning properly with a tap.
