...to get good brakes?

[Upperfield]

What is the best way to set up the brakes on this car?

It is an Ulster rep built on one of the very latest (it seems) SWB Chassis with coupled brakes. It has a s/girling front axle, with the adjuster at each hub, with new Green Gripper linings on 11/4” shoes, new cams and std levers. The axle has new kingpins etc and radius arms are located with a new pivot ball at the crossmember. The ruby drums have been checked, refaced and are ‘true’. The rear axle is std long-nose banjo with new linings same as the front, new cams and std levers and pressed steel drums that have been fully checked and are ‘true’.

The single front brake cable has a suitably-spec’d turnbuckle in it for fine adjustment and each rear cable has a turnbuckle as well.

The car will be going on an extended trip shortly with two 15st men in it!

I have the car on a garage ramp, can support it on the axles with wheels free to rotate and all adjusters available.  I can use the Handbrake to simulate the footbrake.

So, the question is, what is the best process to get the best braking?  Do I need to put bags of coal in the cockpit to get a representative weight before adjusting?  Do I bring up the front brakes first and then bring in the backs to suit?  Or vice-versa?

On a separate note, I am keen to hear how readers top-up the back axle and how full?

Thanks 

Hugh

[Steve Jones]

With the car level, in the air and with all wheels free, pull the handbrake on two knotches. Adust both front brakes such that they are just rubbing. Pull the handbrake on another knotch and adjust the near side rear so it too is just rubbing. Finally, pull the handbrake on a fourth knotch and adjust the off side rear so that it is just rubbing. That's how I do my similar Ulster and it gives balanced braking. If the linings are new, accept that they will take some time to bed in properly with the need to re-do the adjustment as that takes place.

For the rear axle, support the rear of the car on the rear cross member such that the axle hangs down. Fill with oil until it dribbles out of the filler hole. Use an oil syringe or simply a squeezy bottle and tube that the oil comes in. Lower the car to the ground and leave overnight with a tray under the axle to catch any further oil that dribbles. Next day, re-fit the filler plug.

Steve

[Ivor Hawkins]

Two 15 stone blokes in an Ulster? It sounds like you need a Bentley!

Great advice from Steve though, that’s how I do mine.

[Robert Leigh]

I agree with Steve about the method of adjusment. I don't like turnbuckles on the cables because they make the system slightly spongy, so I use adjustable ends on the cables. It's a bit fiddly to get the adjustment right this way, but it pays off in giving a nice firm (relatively) pedal pressure when you are stopping.

[Upperfield]

Steve, thanks for your advice, I did the brakes this morning and they feel good and no one brake seems to come on earlier than the others when tested on grass which is great. This approach now in my notebook!

I will do the back axle oil this afternoon.

Ivor, 15 May be an exaggeration say 13!

Robert, I wonder what the adjustable ends look like?

Thanks again all.

Hugh

[Upperfield]

Steve, thanks for your advice, I did the brakes this morning and they feel good and no one brake seems to come on earlier than the others when tested on grass which is great. This approach now in my notebook!

I will do the back axle oil this afternoon.

Ivor, 15 May be an exaggeration say 13!

Robert, I wonder what the adjustable ends look like?

Thanks again all.

Hugh

[Robert Leigh]

If you look at part no BK31a in A7 Components catalogue you will see an adjustable end illustrated. The knack is to get the cable in the right place before tightening the taper pin. I use a mole or similar wrench on the cable to position it before the pin tightening.