rebuilt engine leaking oil....

[goodwoodweirdo]

I'd like to thank everyone for their advice, esp
Ruairidh who went to the trouble of the photos,

I know what to do this week in the garage, I'll keep you updated.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

You are very welcome, Matt.

It is a rare treat to be thanked, these days, it will see you very well for the future.

[goodwoodweirdo]

Ruairidh, lovely comment ...

Further update, with the engine out and on its back I removed the sump. I can confirm the sump plug was tight ! :-) The rear of the sump is certainly not flat, only 1 screw really holding the back area tight and little sealant with paper gasket... so the plan is to fit bigger studs and nylon lock nuts, any recommendations on size ?, Id like to take the sump off for frequent oil changes and inspection. 2mm gasket on its way ....

I'm toying with the idea of a Ali sump; but if I ever go trailing, might regret that decision and or install a remote oil filter, all things to think about.

cheers Matt

[Reckless Rat]

Remember to be careful with the centre stud at the flywheel end. Don't put a long one in. You'll find out why if you do.

A bit of metal bashing should bring the sump pan back to a decent degree of flatness. The silicone joint is the way to go.

[goodwoodweirdo]

Noted, thanks and I'll go the way Steve went however of course finding 1/4 BSW in Belgium is a bloody disaster.. haahaahaaa

[Steve kay]

Ah, the centre stud. No firmer indication of the sad erosion of the memory than about once in every five times forgetting to have the special short stud carefully put in a special short stud jar, then put back in the correct place. At least after years of such amnesia, the moment the sump is safely filled and all seems ready to go, a mere gentle push on the starting handle reveals an immobile engine. Followed bu words like gosh, bother, and dammit and back under the engine we go for a little stud swapping. Hmm, where is the short one….. No doubt I am almost the only one to whom this has happened.

[Howard Wright]

Matt
Another alternative is to make strengthening plates that sit in the well of the steel sump flanges. Make sure you get the tin sump flanges flat first then fit strips of 3 or 4 mm plate that fit tightly in the well and are drilled to take studs or bolts as you prefer.

Cheers

Howard

[Charles P]

Agree with Ruairidh that these locations are the most likely to be open. However,, to loose a sump full of oil does seem excessive even if all locations are leaking. You did put the sump plug in and fully tighten it didn't you. A regular poster on here made that mistake some years ago!! I gave up with sump studs a few engines ago and now use 1/4" BSW Engineering studs with nylocs. Fitted with a silicone sump gasket, sump oil leaks are a thing of the past - as long as you fit the sump plug.



Steve

Never mind the studs... that's a great engine stand you have Steve.

Steve is a proper Yorkshireman

[Steve kay]

But what might coach bolts of that length be used for?

[Reckless Rat]

Farmer's 5 bar gate?