Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 381 Threads: 16
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8 Location: Port Elizabeth, Sunny South Africa
Car type: '26 Chummy, '28 Top Hat, '33 Type "65", single seaters
Rekkers take heart that if it was that easy for you to shear off the stud, the same could have happened when pulling hard up one of your Col's and then you could have started to lift the block with potential for snapping more studs and leaving you + 1 RP and a very unimpressed Mrs Rekkers (Can't call her Mrs Rat now can I), at the side of the road for a lengthy period.
Far better that stuff like this happens at home where you can deal with things in a familiar environment.
I agree 100% with Alan, I'd change all the studs as a preventative measure
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 381 Threads: 16
Reputation:
8 Location: Port Elizabeth, Sunny South Africa
Car type: '26 Chummy, '28 Top Hat, '33 Type "65", single seaters
Absolutely, an ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure
In theory if the RP was running well, you should be able to leave the crankcase in place, pop the head & the sump, pull the pistons (marking the big end caps clearly), pull the block, change the studs and replace the block without disturbing the valve adjustment.... of course a light valve grind while the block is on the bench isn't such a bad plan.
I did the the same to the engine in a friend's Ulsteroid a month or so back, very quick & easy to do and you don't have to pull the radiator or deal with the blind spline (Herbert's revenge)
We had it apart, honed the block & had it back together again the next day, welding the exhaust manifold & rebuilding the carb, genny, steering arm, brake pedal etc took a few more days.
I'd be more than happy to oblige, shall I send you my address for the air ticket ??
As you said Greig an ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure, if Reckers is to take the engine out then IMO now is the time to give it a birthday. I may be wrong here but it seems Mr Rat covers a fair mileage so one would expect the engine would benefit from a full freshen up.
Trying to deconstruct a 3 bearing engine and gearbox. All very good training. Found a 1" section of piston ring in the oil so far....
Two glitches so far. (1) do I use wooden wedges for getting gearbox off? And (2) how does one get the filler tube off to get to the block nut behind it? Was going to bring a propane torch back today...
02-05-2019, 08:58 AM (This post was last modified: 02-05-2019, 09:04 AM by Mark McKibbin.)
Hedd, How can you repair a turbo (Charger?)with a soldering iron.
(30-04-2019, 08:03 PM)Jays Wrote: Another day slowly fitting indicators to my Ulster Rep. In the old days I’d have done it in a day...nowadays I keep getting diverted!
I was going to keep it original and just use hand signals but with the standard of driving round here being what it is, most people would just assume I’m waving at them ?
Worse still I was out the other day and put my hand out for a right hand turn and was promptly overtaken luckily before I turned, hand signals are probably not in the driving test anymore. Indicators are essential, there are people driving that were born this century.
Re oil filler tube if it's putting up a fight turn on the 'shaft' not the top or you might separate the two. Wrap a bit of leather (e g. old glove) around it and grip on that with mole grips. Yes a bit of gentle heat on the ally may help.