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Interesting video, the test shows the bolt in shear, our small end bolts are in tension providing a clamping force to the small end with no relative movement of the bolt within it's hole.I do not feel this test is applicable to small end bolts, and therefore to the use of spring washers in this location.
I always use rectangular section spring washers and agree with Ruairidh's modus operandi.
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Location: Cheshire
Car type: Race Ulster, 1926 Special, 1927 Chummy, 1930 Box
03-09-2017, 10:46 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-09-2017, 10:49 PM by Alan.)
In general, three conditions are required for a fastener to stay fastened. One, there must be sufficient clamping load to prevent relative movement between the joint faces. Two, the clamping load must be greater than the cyclical loading imposed on the fastener by loading or vibration, or whatever. Three, the sum of the underhead and thread friction must be greater than the unscrewing torque generated by the clamping load and helical thread. Satisfy these and the joint will not come undone, and it doesn't matter what sort of washer is used, but spring washers do assist with underhead friction. The boltscience page shows a bolt with inadequate clamping load reacting to a shear force across the joint. It was going to loosen whether or not the washer was there.
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Location: Sheffield South Yorks
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R,
That's the video. I was thinking more of the theory that if you have an imperfect bore in the little end, you would not achieve much clamping force. Therefore the rapidly alternating loading generated by the piston boss /gudgeon pin friction torque at the joint between gudgeon pin and little end would "rock" the clamp screw in the clearance hole for the screw,the screw pivoting in the little end tapping. This would cause loosening of the clamping of the screw even further. Anyway I think I will carry on using loctite and spring washer here. Also of course I will never be using conrods with oval bores in the little ends. The clamping method is poor anyway even if they are perfectly round. Much better to have bushed conrods with circlips in the pistons to prevent gudgeon pin ends scoring the cylinder bores.
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
04-09-2017, 04:00 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-09-2017, 04:00 PM by Hedd_Jones.)
I best not tell you that I run with gaps on my little ends. Gaps between the brasses that is.
This is on my traction engine. Adjusted by 'feel' with a threaded taper wedge.
It takes about a minute to adjust one if its clomping.
No spring washers, just a locking nut done up 'FT'
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I am going to stick to that method as well Dave.
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Location: TINOPAI NZ
Hi all,
Castellated nuts on big ends or main caps we allways used Lock wire and a lot small end bolts had a hole in the head which was wired around the rod.
No Tabs or spring washers and the only washers used hardened flat ones
nylocks at the time mainly used on Aircraft but not on the Engine.
and Locktite not available at the time
Lockwire is still readily available
Cheers Colin
NZ
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04-09-2017, 09:03 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-09-2017, 09:11 PM by Ruairidh Dunford.)
I recall seeing Aerotight ® lock nuts used on big ends years ago.
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I know this is irrelevant but been to see the Laxey Wheel today on the Isle of Man where we are on holiday.The mechanism is virtually silent, the only noise coming from the water as it falls out of the troughs on the wheel. What a contrast to the screaming motor bikes whizzing round the Mountain Road. Apologies for this bit of irrelevance!