The brake lever/actuator arm has a slight twist so that viewed from above the axis of the ball on the end is at right angles to the brake cable. I have a feeling that modern reproductions are not handed in this way.
From memory the cotter pin (uk parlance) has a taper angle of about 15 degrees, so reversing it will alter the angle of the brake lever by 30 degrees.
22-04-2024, 09:37 AM (This post was last modified: 22-04-2024, 09:40 AM by falcott.)
(22-04-2024, 07:59 AM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: Your front brake levers should sit forward and front, not straight down as in your photo. Is it still in this position with the pistons, shoes and springs all in place?
Girling cotters are orientated with the nuts towards the centre of the car, front and rear (opposite of Austin brake cotters).
Yes, the brakes are fully assembled, springs and everything. The arm is straight down. I don't know what is going on here.
(22-04-2024, 08:19 AM)John Cornforth Wrote: Hi
The brake lever/actuator arm has a slight twist so that viewed from above the axis of the ball on the end is at right angles to the brake cable. I have a feeling that modern reproductions are not handed in this way.
From memory the cotter pin (uk parlance) has a taper angle of about 15 degrees, so reversing it will alter the angle of the brake lever by 30 degrees.
Awesome, thanks Ruairidh. I can see the offset in the cotter pin slot to the cam. It seems there is no way that these cams are made that way. I'll remove the old ones and check before I order. Thanks again.
I've just pulled the new actuators (cams, or whatever they are called) from their packet, and have found that the offset for the lever is quite different to the old ones fitted. I guess that this was causing the levers to be offset towards the back of the car rather than to the front. Are the old cams actually rear actuators, and have been fitted in error?
My memory may be playing tricks on me here (and please correct me if I am wrong, someone) Girling cams are (feintly) stamped on the end (large face) with the position they should be fitted. Something like 'FN' for Front Nearside...
10-06-2024, 08:35 AM (This post was last modified: 10-06-2024, 08:39 AM by stuartu.)
You are correct, Hugh. However, various aftermarket versions were not marked. Furthermore I have a small collection of aftermarket non Girling brake cams in which the cotter positions vary by a marked extent. Perhaps the same is true of aftermarket Girling cams? Ruairidh can doubtless tell us.
Ah, I see from above that he has done so already! The moral is evidently, put your faith in Lord Austin’s version and check that against the replacement.
As is often mentioned - all newly made parts should be checked for correct design and dimension. We try (not always successfully) to keep original parts to check new supplies against.
Yesterday I checked a set of new stock cotters- all now correctly made with offset threads but the nuts were too tight- luckily a club member had kindly donated his collection of old original 'Nettlefold' (an early Australian screw fitting maker) nuts which solved the problem.
It is now many years since original Austin parts were make so thank goodness for our part suppliers but never forget that all new parts often require 'fitting'- not a job for the inexperienced.
Okay, I have the Girling brake shoes back from being relined (because of grease contamination), and I've had a new front brake cable made, longer than the one originally fitted. I've had to get a cable made because I've replaced the cams and actuating arms, which put these replacements w-a-a-y further forward than the originals were. I have to cut a bit of excess length off the cable. Is there anything that I need to look out for when refitting the cable, such as pulling back on the actuating arms, like a sort of preloading? I'm familiar with normal full-Girling systems as found on the Ford 8/10, but this Austin system is a bit of a mystery to me at the moment. Thanks for your help.
