Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 691 Threads: 37
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Location: The Scottish Border
I guess in the 20’s, the period I was researching, like now car buyers could choose
a basic plate, painted locally, or a set of
Sandcast plates from a local foundry. The other option being an
assembled plate using commercially available numbers from Hills
or Bluemels.
By the late thirties other options became available
pressed alloy plates, or assembled plates using plastic letters.
Regards
Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 54 Threads: 3
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Location: Cumbria
Car type: A7 Ulster Rep 1935
My Ulster rep has stuck on letters and numerals and I’m thinking of replacing them with painted ones. The rear ones are stuck directly to the body ie no black background and I am wondering just how legal these are!
I’d post a photo if I knew how!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 691 Threads: 37
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Location: The Scottish Border
There are a series of regulations that stipulate
The size of plates
The size and spacing of letters
The readability of the plates, colour limitations
These regulation vary depending on the year of your vehicle
A good plan would be to check several period photos and
Model yours on that.
Regards
Bill G
Aka AllAlloyCup
Based near the Scottish Border,
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 691 Threads: 37
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Location: The Scottish Border
Hi David
I tinted my white numberplate paint to make it slightly creamy coloured
after having seen Tom Abernethy’s Cup, which is exquisitely
detailed .
Any local sign maker can foil cut you masks, if you can’t hand paint.
Once stuck down firmly you can just spray the lettering ( Magnolia? :-))
Vintage Car Parts ltd do nice cast plates in various formats
Including those with “lugs” for rear lamps.
Happy painting, great weather for it.
Regards
Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Hi, Bill.
Thanks for the tips.
Given that the plates are in reasonable fettle, I shall try and get a small pot of cream/magnolia paint and just touch the plates up and to hide the brass screws on the back one.
One could spend a small fortune on getting the car perfect, but, given that it is in a tidy and usable condition, I think I shall be better employed in preserving it in it's current state of fettle. After all it is what it is. I believe it is called 'provenance'.
Keep up the good work with the All Alloy Cup. I can't wait for the next thrilling installment! Better than any 'soap'.
Regards,
David.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 691 Threads: 37
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Location: The Scottish Border
21-04-2019, 11:34 AM
(This post was last modified: 21-04-2019, 11:35 AM by AllAlloyCup.)
Hi David
Thanks for the interesting comments.
Not many thrills with this car build so far,
but no disasters yet! ( in this soap!)
I will shortly murder the plater though if he does not hurry up
as he is about to impact my critical path planning!
I started with just a chassis , so I can do what I fancy
with the bodywork side of things , but I am trying
to keep the car very much in the spirit of an alloy bodied Cup
which I’m sure Gordon England would have considered if not actually made a few.
The model that followed, the Stadium 2 seater, was available
Initially in ply/fabric but later switched to aluminium, which
I imagine was dearer but needed less Labour?
Regards
Bill G
Ps at 27,000 views of my Cup progress post , I must
Be doing something interesting!
Based near the Scottish Border,
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 691 Threads: 37
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Location: The Scottish Border
How you have added some number plate
illumination? what do you do for rear lamps?
, sidelamp(s) and possible brake lamp?
I’ve seen some “Ulsteroids” with a long plate
Across the top of the tail and others with a square plate
On the offside.
Regards
Bill G
Ps the font is a good choice do you know it’s name?
Based near the Scottish Border,