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Time to go 12volt?
#21
(26-10-2017, 02:38 PM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote:
(26-10-2017, 10:11 AM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: I will report back on the use of the 6v alternator, once I have fitted it


Well, it fits perfectly.

The threads into the housing end are 1/4 BSW as apposed to 1/4 BSF but changing the bolts was not an issue.  The thread into the top for the distributor clamp is 1/4 bsf as apposed to 1/4 bsw but this again was simply rectified by swapping a bolt over.

It is incredibly quiet, very easy to wire up and immediately produced 16amps of charge - I need to take it on a long run to see what happens when the battery reaches fully charged but I am expecting it to either reduce the charge or show no charge.  I am also interested to see how long it takes to bring the battery back up to charge.  

The cut-out is effectively redundant, to do this you must remove the green wires from F2 and place them into A.  The Yellow wire remains in the D terminal as before.

I have suggested a few aesthetically pleasing changes (paint everything black, replace cross-head screws with slot etc. and, although I was not sure about the connection block initially, it does not stand out once fitted) which should make it quite unobtrusive.  Time will tell if it proves reliable but I am informed that the technology inside is already proven over a long period.

I asked about making a similar one for the mag. engine and they have promised to think on that, depending how this model sells.

I have all my own cars currently running fine on properly rebuilt dynamos that work very well but this one seems a very sensible alternative, and certainly comparative on pricing - if you need one!

I will continue to report back after use...

R it sounds great when will they be available ?
Nick
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#22
At Brands Hatch on Sunday for the 750MC event I saw a gear reduction starter motor above a gearbox and assumed it was a cunning piece of fabrication. To my surprise it was an "off the shelf" item. There's also a version for the later engines (mine). Both are 12v "off the shelf" and while they can do a 6V its a special order and twice the price. (Auto Electrical Supplies - v.helpful)

Having looked that one up and exchanged emails I looked at the "alternators that look like dynamos". They are available in 12v and 6v negative earth and 6v positive earth. They're from Accuspark who have the "electronic ignition distributors" in 12v and 6v positive and 6v negative.

My own car (a special) was built up as 12v with a gizmo in an aluminium box to keep the dynamo happy (Dave Lindsey?) but at the time it went off the road wasn't charging - it wasn't important at that time as it never went far so I could top the battery up each time. The starter motor has a fractured lug.

The attraction of both "modern gizmos" is very much "plug and play" - and also the prices... Perhaps half what a refurb costs these days? As a special I also like the weight saving. In terms of 12v or 6v its possible for me to revert but I like being able to throw any old battery on it or to jump start and use bulbs from any garage and when I built it I loved how the starter span with such enthusiasm...maybe too much enthusiasm given the broken lug on it now... (A lesson when I first built the car was that supermarket jump leads would spin the engine but it took "van spec" heavy duty leads to start it). Its got a 12v fuel pump and I might fit an electric water pump and a fan... (London traffic).

Reading other threads I don't think I'm at all tempted by the electronic ignition, but both these units appeal. I also like that I could run a much smaller battery both for starting and not feeling I need "a reserve". My other option is to run a little alternator off a V-pulley and replace the dynamo with an empty tube.

Thoughts?

Anyone know what the VSCC's attitude to the "its an alternator but you'd never know"? That's not as relevant to me as it once was, but I'd like to be able to do Brooklands driving tests with them and perhaps I'd get back to hill climbing. I assume the Bert Hadley lot are open to them...

The objective for now is "back on the road" - run to the shops - day out to an event.
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#23
I'm new to Sevens some of you know I had a recent issue with my starter housing and crankcase. The car came to me with 12 volt, two converted dynamos and armored wiring for 12volt and a 12volt cutout. I will stay on the dark side(figuratively) for now. That said, if I had known better, I would have gone with 6 volt. I am very much in the same frame of mind as Ian. If the cars have done alright for 90 years, why change to make them more modern?

Erich in Seattle
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#24
Why change them? Its a great question to ask before such a move (and I am asking it) but in general terms that horse has long bolted with this car... The radiator is half the height and the engine twice the power so cooling is a bit more of an issue that it was - putting aside the change in traffic conditions. (I'm in SE London). Cooling issues are another story entirely, but being able to turn on an electric fan and a water pump is a fairly common wish with prewar cars. As a special weight is an obsession and development is very much part of the fun.

My godson lives somewhere where he can go for a bike ride all morning and not see a soul. Not the same issues. He's no need for indicators or hazards and the only reason he's going to stop is for a chat.

The other question that gets asked all the time is "why not buy a Caterham and be done with it", and the answer to that is I built the thing (in what feels like a previous life) so there's a strong tie there, I like the narrow tyres and vibration and the way it rides and the cable brakes and the LACK of performance, for all I'm doing my best to improve it, as an academic and engineering exercise as much as to get me to work ten mins earlier. There's a saying that in mid life you want to buy the cars of your youth, I'm in the position where I still own one of them for all its been off the road 18 years and I'm not as supple or competition minded as I once was...

Another option - a genuine option here - is to detune the engine, rebody, run a standard height radiator. With a mechanical pump there's only the ignition load out and about in the day. With LED bulbs I can have brake lights as bright as I like on 6v. I'm mostly driving with street lights so "seeing where I'm going" is less of an issue.

...or buy a standard car...
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#25
The VSCC does not allow alternators, disguised or otherwise
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#26
I have adapted the end cover of my dynamator to take a grease nipple - fitted an o-ring behind the circlip to stop it rattling and help keep the lubrication in.


   
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#27
so is that tapped, or drilled through and bolted on the other side?
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#28
I tapped it Jon, plenty of clearance behind.
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#29
(28-04-2018, 10:02 AM)Ruairidh Dunford Wrote: I have adapted the end cover of my dynamator to take a grease nipple - fitted an o-ring behind the circlip to stop it rattling and help keep the lubrication in.

What is the thread for the bolt that locates the distributor please?
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#30
Hugh,

The distributor location bolt thread on the Dynamator is 1/4 bsf (on the original Lucas unit it is 1/4 bsw).

The thread circled below is M6, from memory, same as the Lucas unit.



   
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