manifold removal - stuck on oversize stud

[JonE]

Ok, so I can thus see Chris G's point about why not to helicoil, Chris KC?
I must admit, my gut feel is not to disturb the thing if it's sound. Likewise, I have a better stud that does seem to screw in ok to the next posiition (the other had rusted end and had reduced in size) so I'm going to go with that first. The car is a symphony in creative bodgery and I don't want to completely remove that part of its history... or risk not having this car on the road next week [month]...

[Chris KC]

Ok, so I can thus see Chris G's point about why not to helicoil, Chris KC?
I must admit, my gut feel is not to disturb the thing if it's sound. Likewise, I have a better stud that does seem to screw in ok to the next posiition (the other had rusted end and had reduced in size) so I'm going to go with that first. The car is a symphony in creative bodgery and I don't want to completely remove that part of its history... or risk not having this car on the road next week [month]...

I understand your reluctance to remove it Jon. Maybe you could whizz around the fat stud with a grinder, flap disc or similar and 'relieve' it a bit, rather than enlarging the hole in your manifold? Then it won't stick next time and it keeps the door open to sort it out on the bench at some point later. At least dab some copaslip on it.

[John Mason]

Jon E, the other stud you mention sounds to me like it has been screwed in a little to far in the past and into the water jacket of the block and hence rusted away. If the threads are ok in the block just put some Loctite or similar gasket sealer on the threads of the new stud. This will coat the stud and stop rusting away and also stop water leaking along the threads of the stud. I do this with all manifold and head studs whether leaking or not.

John Mason

[JonE]

Thanks - I have some wellseal here - would that do, John? (someone else mentioned it on another thread but I got the feeling it might be a bit 'enduring' stuff...

[John Mason]

Jon E, I have just looked up wellseal on the internet. I would say it fits the job perfectly.

John Mason

[JonE]

John - a new (old, but shiny) stud I had wound in just find with a bit of play but won't pull out. Good.
I can see it twisting right into the water jacket void viewing from above with head off.
I tried wellseal but it seemed too thin, so used my new tube of Fernox LS-X which is a bit silicon-y out of the tube, and wound it into that.
Whether that will be solid enough on setting I'm not sure.
I don't want to disassemble the block at present or drill it in its present position, as I can see it will need complete overhaul at some point but want to get a few more miles testing in. At present, I seem to have a lot of parts on the garage floor... and I seen no sense in disturbing studs that are sound even if they are the wrong length.
What about JBweld? - does that create watertight seal around a stud as well having structural rigidity? And would it form its own thread if the stud were to be unscrewed at some point?
I know its bodgery, but I just want temporary reliability...

[Chris KC]

John - a new (old, but shiny) stud I had wound in just find with a bit of play but won't pull out. Good.
I can see it twisting right into the water jacket void viewing from above with head off.
I tried wellseal but it seemed too thin, so used my new tube of Fernox LS-X which is a bit silicon-y out of the tube, and wound it into that.
Whether that will be solid enough on setting I'm not sure.
I don't want to disassemble the block at present or drill it in its present position, as I can see it will need complete overhaul at some point but want to get a few more miles testing in. At present, I seem to have a lot of parts on the garage floor... and I seen no sense in disturbing studs that are sound even if they are the wrong length.
What about JBweld? - does that create watertight seal around a stud as well having structural rigidity? And would it form its own thread if the stud were to be unscrewed at some point?
I know its bodgery, but I just want temporary reliability...

Jon, if it's just a matter of short-term running I would use hermetite to stem any dribbles and go easy when tightening it. You can always drain the rad between runs. I wouldn't use epoxy.

Incidentally I carefully trim all my manifold studs / bolts so they are fully engaged but don't obstruct the water jacket.

[JonE]

good good. Understood. I'm learning lots about upper parts of engines.

(The bespoke studdery can wait until they ALL are replaced and the bores get honed... )

[Hedd_Jones]

Jon.

I know there will be frowns about this bit of advice. But I noticed even the bearded wizzard carries it in his toolbox.

Old fashioned rad weld is excellent at stopping water leaks where the water leaks to air. E.g the radiator. But also the manifold studs. There are better products for leaks to combustion gasses. But not to air.

[JonE]

    Well, an update on this thread. I got to the stage of start up with a new-to-me proper A7nsize sidedraft carb, and as it didnt fire (havent so much as opened it up) I left it a week or two over Xmas. 

Today, 

1. water in ALL the tops of the sparkplug holes, and... (on removing them) 
2. water in the two centremost cylinders.

I have drained down, taken off head and dried everything. No water in oil seemingly.

My head gasket re-use was plainly a stupid idea as I now find a tiny split between stud and the smallest diameter water hole.. central and on the manifold side. (I just thought I should try using it at the time so I could destroy it if having to disassemble it all again.)

Before I put it all together, IS seepage through from water jacket to "that" neighbouring stud enough to cause all the observations, or can I assume that water must be seeping from top hose too? Or... from elsewhere?

Getting naffed off with all this. But I sense the end must be in sight.