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1933 brake cross tube bearings.
#11
Hi

It is an age-old A7 effect to have the OSR "stronger" than the NSR on the footbrake. It's nice and symmetrical on the handbrake, because that pulls on the centre of the cross shaft.

On the earliest one-piece cross shaft the footbrake actuates one end, so the OSR is actuated directly, but the NSR is via a springy cross shaft. Springy ? I hear you say, but isn't it a mighty chunk of unbendable steel ? Well in the world of cable brakes it's torque and tension that matter - visible movement is of little consequence. Just an invisible degree or so of twist in that cross shaft is enough to upset the balance in rear cable tension.

Later cross shafts had a larger diameter hollow outer on the OS, the pedal force travels down this to the centre where a weld joins it to the main cross shaft. Only problem is that the differential movement is so small that the zinc lined bearing on the OS (very hard to see) siezes up and the whole thing becomes no better than the earlier type. If the individual levers on the OS touch each other you get the same effect. Any wear in the OS bearing will have a similar effect, as fore-aft movement just allows pedal force to be communicated direct to the OSR cable.

The final and best design iteration was the semi-Girling cross shaft, with a bearing at both ends of the outer tube and more differential movement. This design does of course have compensation from front to rear, and distributes tension 60% to the front and 40% to the rear. Only snag is reduced ground clearance.
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#12
Going back to my last post, the problem was with the offside (UK driver side) rear brake.

Handbrake adjusted ok with equal tension (lock) on both rear wheels. 
Ignore front wheels for now, but when the footbrake was applied (hard) you could feel the pedal
drop a little. Wedging the footbrake (with homemade adjuster) the rear nearside brake
was hard on, but the offside was not. Same with the handbrake. 
Adjust back so both working on handbrake, apply footbrake hard and back to the problem again.

Well, the problem was the rear offside cable adjuster on the end of the cable. Tighten
it as much as you dare and it still slipped when the footbrake was applied. This was one
of a pair of new cables supplied by one of the cherished suppliers, one appears good,
the other maybe not.

Had the adjuster off the cable and can see nothing wrong with it. Back on and same
problem, so swapped it for the old adjuster taken off the car earlier and this works
perfectly even when you stand on the foot brake as hard as you dare.

So as I said earlier, never seen this before and it had me very confused until I put a small
mark on the cable so I could go back to the 'adjust' point quicker and the mark moved !.

Brakes now 'close' to roadworthy, but still got the balance front to rear to setup, but
really needs to be on the road for final setting. 
Today, 45MPH Northerly winds with rain/sleet, so not today !.

Martin.
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#13
Martin, when setting up your brake balance, it's important to get the front adjustment correct first. Most of your braking is done by the front wheels and you may be surprised by how much slack you will have to leave in the rear cables to ensure they don't get more braking effort than the fronts. Too much and the rears will lock before the fronts have achieved max retardation, and that can result in the car changing ends when you least expect it.

Best of luck.
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