Just to follow up Malcolm’s question regarding chassis level. If my calculations are correct lowering the rear of the car by about 1 1/2” provides 1 degree of castor.
I recently installed a flat front spring and bowed axle for road use but kept the Chummy springs at the back. Measuring the before and after castor showed a 3 degree loss. I’ve now got some flatter rear springs on order!
The difference that lower rear springs makes was brought home to me when the rear springs on my RL saloon were very tired and only had about 4" camber. The car cornered like a sports car and the steering was very safe feeling. When I put on a new pair of springs with the correct camber the car didn't feel as nice to drive but now they have settled it drives very nicely.
23-08-2020, 09:14 PM (This post was last modified: 23-08-2020, 09:15 PM by spannerman.)
Thanks for your help have found if I
Slackened the u bolts that hold the
Spring I get 4 or 5 degrees of caster
So it starting to be the front forging
At fault ! Axle is coming off during
The week so I can inspect it better,.
My problem I ask questions that other people don't like?
Like have you got that for an investment or for fun?
It looks as if you need a tapered wedge fitting between the axle and the front chassis forging? The front forging is very unlikely to be bent, it must be the most durable part of the whole car. I have an Austin 7 in the back of my garage that has deteriorated to the point that only the front chassis forging is left!
With a late axle if you put a wedge at the front I assume that you'll need to drop the ball joint at the rear, unless you force the radius arms up to meet it!
The radius arms have not been loosened
At all, only the axle u bolts so it's just the
Axle that has twisted to increase the caster
So I think its either the forging bent or
Spring seat worn ?
My problem I ask questions that other people don't like?
Like have you got that for an investment or for fun?
This is the spring on my RP, showing the imprint of the forging in the leather packing piece I found there. The leather shows the shape of the forging quite well.
I presume it's the forging you wanted to see but I didn't photograph that I'm afraid.
I recall replacing the central bolt with a 5/16" BSF caphead with the head turned down slightly to fit the hole in the nosepiece.
I bought some 3mm thick leather to make a new packer, but was advised not to fit it, so mine went back together metal to metal with no apparent problems.
